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I have always maintained the policy that my mistake should not cost the customer, I ship it but make sure the buyer knows with a message. Even if it’s a suspected glitch, if I had the opportunity to see the error then I accept the fault. Sometimes we have to look at things from the buyer’s perspective, we offer an item for sale at a specific price, they bought and paid, we need to honor the sale.
01/14/2021 at 10:46 am in reply to: Buyer reqts return claiming item not authentic but is also auctioning the item #85164I thought eBay policy allowed refund without return on inauthentic where there was reasonable evidence to support the claim. Maybe that’s just Amazon.
If a retailer has free returns the cost to them to get the return back could be more than the item cost, so cut their loss.
Since eBay doesn’t say then it’s mostly guesswork, but it’s not just the PL rate as far as I can tell. The algorithm probably includes relative price, performance metrics, lead time to ship, who knows what. I just go with the suggested rate with a 5% max. I’ve played with higher amounts and it doesn’t seem to make any difference, but I don’t know how to really evaluate that considering the relatively low numbers.
So, I got a notice today:
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We’ve closed your buyer’s return.Hi (seller name),
We’ve closed your buyer’s return because we have no record that they shipped the item back to you.
=====================I did find the release on the hold later today, although no email notice of that saying so, just an update in the All Transactions report.
The building I use for storage is an old restaurant that went out of business and the equipment remov3ed. Here’s my interesting tweak, I use an old rolling A/V cart like we used to see in schools for picking orders. The floor in the main dining room is ceramic tile, so the cart can be clickety-clack noisy when empty, but I’m generally the only one that hears it and it doesn’t bother me.
Are you filing the claims online or at your post office?
A warning, if eBay forces a refund on this you need to call that post office, and if it is indeed there ask them to return it. Otherwise, they can go claim the package after the refund and they have the item for free.
Another pet peeve is that eBay holds funds for any return, regardless of the reason for the return. I’ve never paid too much attention to returns that were authorized but never returned, do we need to monitor those now to make sure funds are released? Even if they are automatically returned, I suppose they are held for 30 days or some other length of time.
I can sort of see withholding funds for new sellers, but those with steady sales and excellent seller history should not have to mess with this.
Guaranteed to find it now, lol.
I have a personal package with prescription drugs that has tracking stopping at Phoenix distribution center this past Wednesday. I have one Rx in that package that I will be out of before the weekend is over, I had to call the online pharmacy to get authorization for a 10 day Rx from my local pharmacy.
I’ve always found it to be wonky and just don’t even try to use it. Fortunately there common elements between my title and SKU aka custom label so it isn’t much of a problem.
Post Office clerks often give out incorrect information, even the local Post Master also. I always file the claim online and have never had a problem (be sure to include the postage cost). But, I don’t have many fragile items so not many breakage claims.
If you set up your bank account in PayPal as the backup funding method the shortages will automatically come out of that account instead of having to hassle with transferring money manually from bank to PayPal. You just need to leave enough money in that checking account.
I ship everything through ShippingEasy using my PayPal debit card. My PayPal account uses my business checking account for backup funds, the same account that my (weekly) Managed Payment disbursals are being deposited to. Other than the hassle of more transactions to balance monthly in the checking account, it’s no daily problem.
If you have a box the right size except for height a box resizer like this is handy because it scores the line where you want to fold the new flaps. Just run it around the box at the desired height then cut down each corner to the scored line. This can also help prevent a cubic upcharge. You can do the same thing manually with a little more work. I used to do this by marking the height then scoring the line with the backside of a butter knife or other flat object to make a crease. You can actually do that on the outside of the box and it works just as well.
You can buy flat corrugated sheets but with the shipping and minimum order it can get expensive for a seldom as you might need it. More work to make a box that way. I keep any large boxes I might get and break them down for storage, there can be a lot of usable cardboard there.
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