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Kraft paper is heavier and less likely to compress in my experience. When I’ve had returns that used the same packing material, it still held up and could maybe take another 1-way trip if it had to. The added weight is problematic if you’re dealing with lighter items, but my average box size is 24x16x6, so shipping cost is already up.
I believe the Macbook Air only has a 13″ screen, but it’s the one I’d go with if I had to go back to using a Mac.
I looked into liquidation.com a few months ago for electronics and couldn’t make the math work for most of the auctions. I live close to one of the warehouses, so this was without shipping.
The prices mentioned in the manifest are obviously based on Amazon listings which are usually a solid xx% higher than eBay. In the worst cases, retail price was a few hundred dollars greater than eBay solds. To make it more complicated, I had a hard time finding items that weren’t sold with the expectation of free shipping, so unless you know exactly what you’re looking at, it’s a lot of time spent researching and figuring out the margins w/ shipping included. A spreadsheet is mandatory, lol
Lots are also very front-loaded, like 2 Dymo label printers, some gaming headsets, then 50 phone cases. Since you don’t know the condition of anything, you’re pretty much gambling on the good stuff making the investment worth it. Given the difference in retail/list price, the low end items end up being $5 + free shipping in a sea of other sellers with the exact same product.
This is pretty common for auctions involving electronics, though. A lot of the bidding I do on state surplus sites end up getting really competitive and pricey on stuff that has no guarantee to be in working condition. You either get a big payoff or barely break even, but that’s the fun part IMO.
Serial number on file + having photos of it in the gallery. It’s all I do for electronics, which is what I primarily sell.
I wouldn’t worry about Bose stuff. They attract more of an enthusiast market.
Something like those Beats headphones would make me worry since there’s a lot of convincing fakes floating around, but the market is different there, too – more people buying them just because of the brand/style association.
Good pictures and a decent description is all I care about.
A 99%+ feedback store with mile-long descriptions full of disclaimers and ***PLEASE READ***s sets off more of my red flags than a tiny, sub-100 feedback store.
Only 1 of the 4 CSRs knew what I was talking about but didn’t have the tools needed to remove the defects. They said a ticket would be put into the system and to call back in 5 days if nothing changed.
That makes sense.
I would go this route:
Embossed text with 50% transparency or so, placed off-center as to not cover up too much. Potential buyers will get the gist without wondering if the text is there to obscure defects/etc.
If I were doing it, I’d shoot the picture at an angle, e.g.: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Mint-Print-Ad-Poster-The-Sound-of-Music-Carrie-Underwood-NBC/322140123992?hash=item4b010c3358:g:cO8AAOSwbYZXVkXS:rk:3:pf:0
I’ve heard good things about XnConvert. See: https://www.xnview.com/en/xnconvert/
“Good” watermarks ruin the image to make them unusable elsewhere (see: stock photo websites.) A simple corner watermark is easily cropped out. If someone is taking the time to steal your photos, then they’ll spend the extra 10 seconds to remove your watermark, too.
Conflicting info out there. Some people say you can reuse the key 3 times, 10 times, 100 times, etc. Also depends on whether it’s an academic/student version which could have difference license conditions.
IMO, if you don’t know, don’t bother. Just due to the complex nature of software copy protection, a return for a legitimately invalid key is entirely indistinguishably from one where the person used the key and just wants their money back – you can’t prove they used it and can’t “test” the key without potentially using it up. Easiest scam on the site. eBay will only back you up if it was listed as New, and even then it’d be a bit of a battle.
I’ve only successfully sold copies of old Macromedia (pre-Adobe) software which had “master keys” released for anyone to use since it was so out of date. Also old games with hardcoded serials, but those have a different market. Everything else has been returned for wacky reasons.
My understanding is that if a users clicks on a promoted listing and buys the item in the next 30 days, it’s filed as being a promoted sale.
Yup – consumer electronics for me.
“You must have at least 30 peers in your group, and at least 100 transactions or 10 item not as described returns, to see peer benchmarks in a particular category. Peer benchmarks are not available otherwise.”
Isn’t the buyer automatically given a return label right away, though? I’ve never actually returned something so I’m unaware of what the buyer actually sees.
I forgot about the adjustment – good to see they’re looking out for low-volume sellers after all.
As for peers: “Your peers are sellers who list on the same listing site as yours, sell items in the same category and have similar listing attributes such as item price, estimated delivery dates, item condition, and return policy.”
So a pretty good list of criteria, I’d say. This info is tucked away next to an “i” icon after “See how you compare to your peers”, by the way. Took me a while to find it.
