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01/06/2017 at 8:39 am in reply to: Free Insertion Listings with Premium Store — Is the Amount Cumulative? #9680
Good Morning Shelly:
Your question is a good one and along with the first reply, got us wondering. Is it all semantics or is it just numbers “math” as you call it.
I have not validated the following so it is just my opinion on it, but it is the way I think about it at this point. We are also only at approx. 800 items in our store so up to this point not even “self-tested” the following but we believe this is how it works.
So, maybe a better way to track it for “math” or should I say cost reasons is by billing cycle. Take a look at your Ebay invoice. Everyone has an invoice billing date. So regardless you use the term insertions, you will be allowed to have at the end of 30-31 days of your billing cycle 1,000 items contained in your store for sale. Any amount over the 1,000 count would then be billed to you at the per piece price. $.10 each I think.
So every 30-31 days when Ebay sends you the invoice you will be charged the “extra fee” per item over the 1,000 item limit. With direct response to your question and the rely, it is correct that during the 30-31 day billing cycle all of your items should have rolled over at that point and be FULLY COUNTED within your billing cycle. So at this point the 110 you reference is all that have “RENEWED” based on their anniversary date of insertion at the time you read that number. But by the end of your billing cycle all 500+ of your items should have been Renewed” and probably the day before your Ebay bill is sent all of your items will have been accounted for.
But, as stated above if the word “Insertions” is correct, then if you add [INSERT] 3,000 items onto what you already have that will “rollover” you will have a fairly large charge for the extra 3,000 insertions over what is rolled over plus what was already existing.
But and a BIG BUT, our contention here is that you could “INSERT” 3,000 items in your store during that billing period and sell all 3,000 and if at billing time you are under 1,000 you should be billed for only that number that exists at billing time, not a tally count of the middle of the months activity which would include 3,000 new entered and then 3,000 sold within 24 hours, thus now gone at billing time. You still have to pay your FVF on all those that sold but not listing fees if they are not present and accounted for at billing time. So unsure if the word and process of “INSERTIONS” is correct? We are unsure.
Once you know your billing date, just look at the number of items in your store the week before or a few days before and you should have a good idea of the extra items you will be paying the $.10 each on. If you pay by the “INSERTIONS”, then you would have the normal store fee for 800 items and then a huge fee for “INSERTING” 3,000 listings and then selling all 3,000 the next day. Hhmmm?? Makes us wonder?
Hope this is correct, unless we are totally wrong. Maybe someone will validate if we are correct or not and if not set us straight.
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
Thanks Terri & Linda. I will give that another try. I did this once before and called and they said couldn’t anything about it this time, but the coupon was still good and I could just go and make another order and use it then on the 2nd order. So that is what I did last time. I was low on supplies anyway so just went ahead with the second order.
But now I am in fairly good shape with supplies and don’t really need anything at the moment so would like to get the credit this time. Thanks and I will call a few people today and see what they say.
mike at MDC Galleries in AtlantaWell you deserve it.
Speaking above of my friend who owns the brick and mortar consignment store wanting to move things online. I told her if she joined the SL Forum first, and then also rented your farm house for 1 full week during Jan. or Feb she would get a SL discount. Then if they bought you guys dinner that she could ask all of the questions she wants about taking her business online. Sorry if I threw you under the bus but figured a full weeks rental during your slower time would be worth it. Her husband came in while we were talking and she immediately begin pitching him and he seemed receptive. We see them every week because we have bought from her almost every weekend for the last three years. I will check in with her again this Sat. for a weeks rental for you guys.
She used to have a B&MS for all vintage clothing, then gravitated toward the Consignment model. Now years later she is thinking hard about everything we have been sharing with her as well as some of her competitors and is now seeming to want to either mix the two or move online. So what better way to get the coaching as to do the rental and the sit down with you guys.
Will give you an update after we speak with them again later this week.
mike in AtlantaHey.. I have a suggestion that will take a lot of this issue away. Especially since you say you research your items and know fairly well the pricing structure. There is a setting on your store that you can set that will apply to your “make an Offer”. It allows you to set it as either a percentage or a specific dollar amount of the amount you will take. That means any offer that comes in at too low of the price listed will “automatically” be declined and Ebay will send the one who offered that low price an e-mail [which you can customize with your own words if I can remember correctly] saying their offer is to low.
So in your case if you know your market, research and pricing is really spot on and the best you would do on any of your items is say 35% off then set it to automatically decline any offer lower than 35% off your listed price. So a $20 listed item will automatically reject any offers lower than $13.00. You will never even hear or know about them.
If a buyer really wants it he can make another offer and come up and try again. If still too low, he will get another auto rejection notice. Eventually they get the idea and either jump up to a decent offer or just go away. In that case you will never be bothered by any low offers even coming in to you.
There are some pro’s and con’s to this as Ryanne has mentioned way back but a good tool if you are pretty sure of your prices. In some of our cases we at times may take a real low offer so we keep that option open to us. I have an item right now at $2,500 dollars. I got it for free, I would take $500 or less for it [80% off] so using the auto rejection system isn’t for me.
BTW you can do it on individual listings.
Hope this helps or provides you with an alternative to getting stressful emails all the time.
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta
Hey Nancy.. You got me thinking. Boy I need to list and get so side tracked by SL comments some times. Anyway here is a link thaty shows the “cheap” Impulse sealer I was mentioning. But those poly bags she is using are expensive. The roll of poly tubing is way less.
Then at the end, there are many other ads / vids that show the fancier machines which can run over a thousand dollars. No need for that. I see an 8″ Impulse sealer for $25 online. Then add the cost of the poly tubing. But I would NOT SUGGEST USING poly bags. You pay for that opacity and the adhesive strip [which she cuts off=a waste] they are too expensive.
Also you can just open up the poly tubing and let a fan blow air into the tube much faster than her “little pump gizmo”. Uline also has poly air pillow making machines at various costs but are geared more to the higher volume user.
I may just set-up to do this as a late Christmas present for me [Uhh my business]. Maybe even see if the poly bags that Ryanne uses will heat seal well enough to be used. I just ordered 350 12″ x 20″ bags for $11.64 w/ free shipping. Cheap enough. Especially since I can maybe yield 4 pcs. of 6″ x 10″ pillows out of one 12″x20″ bag. That is not even a penny an air pillow if it will work. certainly worth $25 to $30 for an Impulse Sealer to find out.
mike in Atlanta
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
Jay… Hope you and Ryanne have a Great, Wonderful New year. I was just poking around and say a number that made me remember something and then I got a big smile and it was the thought for all of the Kudos you two deserve.
I was poking around in my profile stats and saw the numbers for the new forum here. It said 387 Topics, 576 threads, with 4,464 comments and 856 members. Then I remembered a very early pod cast from you guys where you ended it by you asking for the members-readers to “come on and join in, don’t be shy. Post some comments we really need them.” Then, Ryanne said, “yeah, we got 12 comments last week” and you said “Come ‘on guys, let’s get that up to 24 by the next pod-cast”.
What a smile to think that at 12 commenters you were asking for more and now in less than a month with the new site you have 4,464 comments and 856 members. That could project out to being approx. 55,000 comments in a year not including new members. WOW!!! That is a great accomplishment and in my opinion shows the power of the process of having an open and honest, forthright area for like minded business people to come, gather, share, learn and help each other.
I was telling a friend who owns her own consignment store, how the group was so small a few years back but still provided very valuable information that helped us build our business. She would ask me occasionally how it was coming and I always told her good but sort of kept the site on the quite. She is a great source for us and the SL info. helped us learn to make great deals for us along with her system of selling.
The other day she informed me of thinking of changing her business model from being a consignment store to now including her own sourcing and selling her inventory online. I immediately told her to join in with us and hope to see her here. A consignment store owner would be neat to hear from and see how the transition goes.
My point being is you two deserve all the kudos for investing the time into this forum and creating such a great place to others to come, share, learn, grow and in turn be propserous.
Good luck in all of your “experiments” :-), this year and may all of your projects come to fruition without major hassels and may we all grow and build our futures together through sharing.
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
Nancy: Your question just made me remember something from the past. I may try this myself and see what the total outcome is. But in the large printing company I was at we used “impulse” sealers to make and bag many of the small, loose items we included in the display kits we sent out to chain stores.
We had a stand on the left side of the sealer that held two rolls of plastic tubing 6″ and 12″ wide one above the other. We just reached over and pulled the width of choice across the sealer and with the size we wanted sticking out on the right, we lower the sealer arm down and in 2 secs it sealed a bag. Leave the arm down for 4 to 6 secs and it cut through the bag. We could pull the flat tube across, stuff the parts inside and then seal it and then throw the bag into the kit we were shipping. BUT… we also had a hair dryer paying on it’s side and when we needed air pillows, we would use our fingers to spread the end of the plastic tube open a little bit and the hair dryer air [on cool blow] of course would billow up inside the tube and we would then seal the tube and thus created our own air bags to the size and quantity we needed. We used this as a filler job for some employees when they had nothing else to do, we had them make some air pillows to keep them on the clock. We had them throw them into a large “Gaylord” box for future use. BTW a small desk fan worked also to blow in the air.
So now remembering that, I looked up and saw that you can buy complete air pillow making systems but they are expensive. But I also see that you can buy an 6″, 8″ or 12″ heat sealer for approx. $25 to $50 bucks with the built in timer for the heat impulse. Why not buy one of those like we did, then buy say a six inch wide roll of light weight poly tubing plastic and just make your own filler air pillows as needed? You can even make your own bags this way and I also remember if you get the shrink type of plastic you can run the hot air gun over it and the plastic will shrink to a tight fit around your item [if so desired].
I haven’t researched the cost of the roll of plastic yet, but am thinking that a one time small investment would pay off in the longer run, save money over all and you would have what you need any time you needed filler.
Just a thought. I am going to research further and maybe do this myself. Certainly the air pillow bags are lighter and would save on shipping weight and provide a ROI for setting this up. Who knows, maybe even be a money maker on those marginal items that would tip the scale to the next higher pound other wise. Much easier than cutting down and resizing boxes to lighten the weight load. But I do also cut down or resize boxes fairly regular. I can take 4 ounces of a box usually by just resizing the flaps and 6 to 8 ounces by resizing the box an inch or two. But all that takes a little extra time.
BTW the way, cutting a USPS box in half makes a great small size box of 7-1/2″ long x 5″ wide x 4-1/2″ high and at a weight of 2 ounces. Perfect for small items, cups-mugs and hats. I then wrap it with a layer of my 8 mil opaque contracter’s plastic, just like a Christmas present and it ships First Class without any problems. If needing Priority, it is ready to go since it already has the Red, white & blue Priority images on it.
P.S. several of the Priority Boxes cut down to nice useable sizes and come close to the new Ebay sizes and it saves you from having to “buy” those Ebay sizes. We usually make a few during some of our down time and put into our box shelves. The price is certainly right.
Just an idea ….
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta-
This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
Yes I agree hiring as an employee and yes it is a pain. Our payroll at the large printing company was very high and we had three employees that did nothing more than handle payroll and do the payables.
But in my smaller companies we do 1099 BUT all of the vednors are sub-contractors in the true sense.
First you have to get a signed W-9 form on everyone you pay as a sub. It includes their name, business address, their SS No. [if sole proprietor] or Fed ID no. You must have one of these completed every single year you use them as a sub.
Then as a sub-contractor you are not allowed to mandate a starting time, work schedule or any rules or regulations on them. As an independent sub they call the shots on the hours, days and schedule that they work. They can “agree” to meet your schedule [such as for Cable guys, house or carpet cleaners, etc.] but they don’t have to stick to it and can actually come and go on the job as they please. IRS will also want you to have an invoice from them for the services rendered and a total amount. Your records need to show that as a “payable” and have proof of payment.
As far as the sub is concerned they need to have a business checking account, have a fed ID number or their SS number set up with their business and be able to bill-invoice you. In turn they will need to file their taxes as a business, but that is not your concern. You just need to have that paper trial for your records.
Caveate .. When you start hiring employees [even one] it wouldn’t hurt for you to begin to outline for an employee hand book. Because you will need to start setting the ground rules for “precedents” that if or when you have a second or third employee you can react, rule, act, and apply all situations evenly across the board for all concerned equally. We have had to go to an EEOC claim before and have an employee say we did something for another employee and not for them and that is discrimination. That one cost our company $7,000 in back pay.
So start decide right now about if they will be less than 32 hours = part time or over which is full time, will you pay for Holidays, which holiday’s. Hourly or salary, what if you are closed due to your travel, [when we closed our plant one time for two weeks due to illness we had a lawyer tell us that is called a “lock out” and all employees that were willing to work and could not work due to having the “doors locked” for whatever reason meant we still owed them pay. We got around it by pink slipping all of them and they collected unemployment. But that also made our share of unemployement taxes go up 7% for a period of time, what about their vacation time when you are not on vacation, vacation pay, sick time, reasons to fire them that is in writing, voting notices, written expectations [how many times I have heard, “that is not my job and it wasn’t in my job description so I am not going to do it”].I have authored 6 “Employee Handbooks” in my times and have had to cover a lot of topics. Now with only one employee this is way ahead but it is still some things to think about and to help give you some help in at least putting together a short starter of a few pages to hand to your new employee. You don’t need a full blown handbook especially in your low key environment, but even one person can come up with a few issues and questions that you need to maybe have given some forethought to.
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta
Flim: We agree with Linda. Your sales amaze us also. We always keep you on the radar and just end up saying, boy wish we could do that! Great job and keep it up.
Here is to a great 2017.
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta-
This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
I just did the same thing with my coupon yesterday but it was by a “fluke” which I think is not good within the system.
I got my coupon code and had it copied. I went to the Ebay Supply store and selected my items which came to $55 went to my cart for checkout, copied my coupon code and saw the total at the bottom at $5 and few cents. Great the $50 was applied. Then I thought I may like to purchase one other item so I went bak to the store to review another item but decided against it. I went back to my cart and clicked check out. Guess what, when you do that your coupon code is gone and if you don’t catch-see that it is, then when you check out you pay the full amount.
I double checked and went to PayPal and yep, only the $55 charge was there and no $50 coupon credit. So as a reminder, once you go to your shopping cart, do not use “continue shopping” or your back arrow or anything. just make sure your code is in place or re-paste it then proceed to check-out.
Now that I can’t use my coupon $50 gone on that slip up.mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta
Howdy.. Found only one sold within one of our research databases. Not a sale from us. I just Copied the following:
“Large Early 1950s Pan Piston Filling Fountain Pen ( West Germany )NEW OLD STOCK, NEVER USED..In ORIGINAL Wrapper and Box, BURGUNDY Fountain Pen and the body unscrews and will accept Pelikan (M200), Esterbrook, Sheaffer Cadet, Venus and Osmiroid nibs among many others…..It may be a MontBlanc sub brand,but the similiarities in style seems apprarent and it also has the same type of filling system.
The plastic has NO cracks,chips,engravings or removed,ect…UNUSED OLD STOCK-Even the Box is NEAR MINT not even a smudge and original instructions……. The Pen is a Large 5 inches capped. ” , and that is all it said and it sold for $55 on Dec. 27th 2007.
Hope this helps a little bit.
Mike at MDC Galleries in AtlantaTry laying them spread out on a wood floor or maybe out in the driveway. Unless you are in an area that has snow covered drives for the next few months 🙂 LOL. Then Weight or tape down the corners or have “the kids” stand on them and then do a thorough vacuum cleaner job on them on both sides. A good vacuum with a rotor / beater bar brush. We have a Dyson “Animal” that really gets hair off things very well. Also comes with a smaller “animal hair” attachment for the end of the hose that we go over some furniture cushions with also. I would think trying this would get the job done.
I have done University Logo polyester blankets this way and they came perfectly clean. Then we folded and put into a plastic bag along with a 1/8th scissor cut piece of a fabric sheet for nice smell – odor control and Viola’ good to go. We still have some stored for some months now.mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
I agree with Nancy. When used as a noun and referring to wine it is meaning the year of the grape. Vintage 1940 or Vintage 2014. It represents the year bottled. But according to the dictionary it does include “usually meaning of quality”. But with wine, the 2014 “Vintage” may be a better year for the grape and thus the wine of “better quality” yet newer.
But to those of us that are re-sellers we refer to vintage as a time-period date stamp. Vintage thus older, Antique is fairly accepted in local and world wide auction houses as 100 years old or older, except in certain categories.
Yes it is a marketing tool. Many Ebay buyers are looking for collectibles that are older, movie prop masters are looking for period pieces, museums are looking for period pieces so vintage fits into that marketing ploy. “Vintage= thus an older period, which is as stated above is relative. I am 69 years old, I find items that fit into many styles, mid-century, retro, atomic, art deco, Abstract Modern, Hollywood Regency, and now even Shabby Chic all representing time periods to us.
My big question, especially since we are just about to open an Etsy shop brings a bigger question into focus. Who policies this 20 year rule. First a seller has to be able to even find a date stamp on an item. What if the item is 18 years old, who can prove it is not 20 years old? What or who at Etsy even tracks this? Some companies have been in business since the 1930’s, 40′ 50’s and still made the same ceramic pieces they did then using the same molds and the pieces look the same. Is the piece I am selling only 14 years old or 45 years old?
I am also a an artist. I have a sketch book of ideas going back to the 1960′ and 70’s. I also have brushes, canvass, paints that are that old. I decide to do a painting useing 50 year old concepts, 50 year old materials, he only thing “new” is the assembly of the art object. Is that new non-vintage by way of only a physical action or is it very vintage by way of conceptualisation, material age? What does Etsy do if you have a modern reproduction of a ceramic piece but are unaware of it and only an expert can tell the difference? I know that Roseville pottery was sold years ago and the new owners still use the same molds to make new pieces.
So, we have thousands of items we have removed from our six antique booths we closed down and are moving online. We are going to still use the term vintage on anything we know is definetly dated at 20 years old or older BUT ARE ALSO going to list items that are less than 20 years old and know no one at Etsy can tell the difference. Again who at Etsy can differentiate between something 19 years old and something 21 years old in the real, true vintage world of commercial mass production?
Also being a master fine art print maker, I can tell you also that many new highly technical manufacturing processes that are capable of dead on detail reproduction of older objects and prints. I see many art prints that were produced by a 22 color, second generation Piezo head laser printer with archival inks making Giclee’s these days. I can tell the difference but only under a 30x power loupe or higher. I have even had to go to a 100x power microscope at times.
I pose a question to you…Can you tell the difference between a real $20 dollar bill and one of the new counterfiet $20 dollar bills? Or tell the difference between a new real $20 bill or a “real” yet old $20 dollar bill that has been kept in a archived plastic sleeve since it was first produced years ago but looks brand new?
So, if an item has any traceable means such as sku number, bar code, mfg. serial number, model number, etc. then keep it off Etsy. But if not, then it is going to be fair game for all of our “VINTAGE” items. Etsy opened the door by saying they will allow “Vintage”, now they will have to pay the price to build a manpower team to police everything that gets listed under that heading and I just don’t think they will or can.
Just my opinion here guys and many things to ponder. It is what makes all of this fun, for us at least. 🙂 …
Mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta.-
This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
Our databases we use show these are the attachments for a kitchen grinder. They are the fore runner of the modern day food processors. They are part of a unit that is attached to a counter top, usually by way of a screw which when turned applies upward pressure and secures the unit to the “lip / overhang edge” of a formica counter top. They are made under the following names. Healthy Gourmet, King Kutter, Salad Master, Rival, Vintage Magic and Dazey Universal.
Our databases show the complete units, [base, handle and 5 various slicing/dicing. shredding cups] selling for $20.00 to $49 over the past few years. Then we see some of the older, more collectible vintage models selling as complete units [base, handle, & cups] for $40 to $99 dollars, but again they are the complete units.As far as age goes, stainless steel is hard to say on age and how much used. New stainless could get scratched up pretty bad in a short time. Older stainless could have been used a lot and only washed by hand with soap and a wash cloth. So careful on saying “not used very much”. You really don’t know.
Now as Jay always says trying figuring out what keywords a potential customer will use to look for your item and do some Google research. Also use Google’s Image Search feature. You can even photo your item, drag your photo into Google Search and it will look for and present to you images that it thinks are a match. Not accurate many times, but just another tool. And if you are going to be a serious re-seller of older vintage things, I suggest two or three paid subscriptions to various databases, like we do, which will show you photos, descriptions and prices of items sold. We have access to items sold over the past 10 years. Ebay’s 90 day “SOLD” listings are not a comprehensive go to choice at least for us.
Here is what you are also going to be looking for to qualify the age, what they are and which models. Obviously look for any markings on the unit. Then put a magnic up against them and see if “steel” they will be magnetic, if alloy [more modern] the magnet won’t stick. The various models do have some degree of various “angles” to them the slant or slope]. Also I see six rectangular notches, some have more and some less. I see a center round hole, some have a center rectangle and some have a small notch on them. Yours have a depression around the center hole and “dimples” in the side “spokes” so to speak, indicating some type of stamping or pressure applied when the hole was made. Some have welded flat area onto the cylinder. The stamping would indicate thinner gauge metal which would allow stamp forming to take place. Older units have thicker metal which indicates older forming techniques such as casting or forging.
So as a vintage re-seller all of these types of observation skills need to be learned and many things need to be considered and observed in any vintage item in order to locate it’s place in time, country or origin, which units separate parts go to, in turn then, which units are the $100 units vs. the $19 dollar units or the rare collector items.
This now leaves me at the point of wanting to tackle Etsy on their detailing, policing of and validating “Vintage ITems” at a 20 year old bench mark. But that is a discussion for another time and place, bt it will come. Look for it. 🙂
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta….
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
MDC Galleries & Fine Art.
Yes they are man made abrasive piece of melamine foam. But not completely chemical free because of the formula that is used to actually make the resin into a softer material. melamine is also what is used for the “plastic counter top laminate material” and also some dinner ware as in “Melamine Non=Breakable plastic plates”.
But in any case below is a more detailed look at “Magic Erasers” and how they are made in sort of layman’s terms.
Grease splatters in the kitchen, crayon streaks on the freshly painted wall, scummy rings in the bathtub—these fouls are powerless against the cleaning strength of Mr. Clean Magic Erasers. Since hitting the market more than a decade ago, the erasers have rounded up a consumer base that swears by the magic. But the secret behind the material that makes up the scrubbers, melamine foam—the same stuff that’s widely used as an acoustic insulator in recording studios—is less magic and more simple chemistry.
Melamine
On its own, melamine is just an organic base in the form of white crystals. But when combined with other compounds, it can transform into a plush foam—the Magic Eraser—with a sandpaper-like microscopic texture. You can use it to scrub off sticky dirt and scum from all kinds of surfaces; just avoid using it on delicate or glossy exteriors. Melamine’s high nitrogen content also makes it a useful flame retardant and fertilizer. In 2008, Chinese fraudsters used melamine to make milk and infant formula appear to have a higher protein content, killing six babies and making nearly 300,000 others sick. Two of the perpetrators were executed.
Formaldehyde
This stuff is best known as the smelly liquid that’s used to preserve dead animals for decades and possibly forever. By itself, formaldehyde can be dangerous and sometimes lethal—irritating the skin, corroding internal tissue, and even causing cancer. But if you mix it with melamine, the result is a tough resin in which those toxic effects are neutralized. High tensile strength makes the resin a suitable material for dinnerÂware and countertops. Force gas bubbles to form in the resin during the manufacturing process and you end up with Mr. Clean’s melamine foam.
Sodium Bisulfite
Alone, this stuff has antimicrobial properties; it’s excellent as a preservative for winemaking. Here, it can help boost resin production, but it’s best used sparingly—sulfite-modified foams are less stable and can emit formaldehyde under certain conditions.
Water
Procter & Gamble says the key to the Magic Eraser’s stain-fighting properties is in its “water-activated microscrubbers.” But there’s nothing water-activated about it—the eraser can be used dry as well as wet, with little difference in the result. Water likely makes it easier for dirt to cling to the eraser, though—the same way you might wet a paper towel before wiping down a wall or table.
We too use Magic Erasers to clean off certain stains and dirt but only on surfaces that don’t scratch. They will and do leave a “dulled” / scratched surface due to the abrasive nature. In the bathroom it is OK on ceramic tile or glass but be very careful on plastic, fiberglass and highly polished metal chromed surfaces.
I think I remember an old TV slogan..something like …. “Better Living Through Chemistry!”
Mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta
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This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by
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