Search Results for 'yellow and blue'

[MDC Galleries & Fine Art]

Mickdog:

Couple of suggestion for you.
#1 is to correct the spelling of Biege to BEIGE
#2 is to take a look at the dictionary def. of beige and you will see it is a yellowish, tan, brown. So make absolutely sure these are even beige in the first place
#3 search this forum for my longer explanations on how males and females “see color” and “color blindness and “color deficiency”. Males see color defirrently then females, many males are red green deficient and can be 1 in a thousand or so while females may be yellow blue and is not dominant so only one in about 10,000
#4 go to this web site https://enchroma.com/pages/color-blindness-test and test your own color ability and get the test result. It’s free and only takes about 5 minutes. Actually everybody here should do it. If you are deficient in certain colors, shades or ranges you may have to have someone double check your color categories.
#5 I have laid down a good argument in the past about monitor variance. I use two monitors and can see the different on both monitor’s when side by side. So your buyer may have a monitor calibration issue combined with their inability to see color correctly.
#6 Test your “white balance” on your camera or camera phone. Use a 20% gray card to balance for grays coming through from the camera. Many whites shift toward Gray which can be either warm or cool gray. Warm will show some reddish in the white hue and cool will show some blue. Add to the “cool gray” scenario any flourescent lights and that will throw your photo even more toward the blue side. Daylight from windows outside will shift your photos toward the red spectrum. No flourescent, overheads, LED [which flicker by the way only you can’t see it] will distort any true color.
to test this… shoot a plain white piece of paper, then print out your solid white square and then hold it up to your refrigerator white appliance and look at the difference. Hold your phone photo up to the refrig and see the difference.
#8 do test shots on every setting until you can shoot and maintain a good, clean white
#9 make sure you do the color test at enchroma and see how you eyes and brain are seeing and interpreting color.
#10 Go to this link and check for your Ike bowls. https://www.worthpoint.com/inventory/search?query=ikea+365+bowls . Tell me which ones are white or [variations of white], is it lighting, cameras, monitors, human eyes, males or females looking at them??? Look at the other colors and the dark lighting. How many have their white balance set correctly or evevn know what white balance is.

You wont be able to see the prices without a subscription but you can read the titles and definitions. If you want some prices, post back here and ask for any of us who has a subscription to Worthpoint to give you the prices.

By the way as a tie in to last weeks comments on studio lighting. We use the Cowboy studio lighting. We have multiple tri-pods with two and four bulb heads for a total of 12 110 watt [equal to 500 wats] for a total of over 1500 watts of light. We use 4 bulbs to light up the the background behind our object [not on the object itself]. Then we sit the object about 6 to 10 inches in front of that and then we hit the object from the front, sides and top with the remaining tri-pods at a 45 degree angle. try to light up enough so you don’t cast any shadows at all. If so bring the lights closer.

Lastly we have a MSWord document among our many SOP about color and we cut and paste in a reply to any customer who brings up color. Lastly we do not accept any returns for color. Do you think any buyer has ever tested their color vision? They may see pink as white, gray as white, tan as white, light brown and light green as white. A beige with light brown in it, the male will see it more as an off white or light gray.

BTW, all of these facts are certifiable with some research. We learned all this is art school both undergraduate and graduate.

Good luck and have fun experimenting…

Mike at MDC Galleries and Fine Art

[MDC Galleries & Fine Art]

Yes AF, this is certainly something to look for and especially in today’s world with the advent of the Giclee. A multi-color high end ink jet printing process. The one we had in our plant had 26 Piezo ink jet nozzles that were connected to 26 1-gallon containers of color. So, we could apply 26 colors per pass of the print head. We then could raster those heads so the ink jet spray patterns were over lapping and even experts could hardly tell if the print was an original or not. Add to this the inks were archival quality with a life span against fading of 100 years or more. Then applied to archival canvas, paper or board, we could produce museum quality reproductions of original work. Then when we completed an edition, we would give the prints to the artist to pencil sign, number, date and title.

Then to your point, in some cases, artist did want to go back over the top of the prints and do hand drawn embellishments or hand done texturing. That is why when we did what we contracted for as an “edition” of prints, we required in our contract that the artists had to come to our plant and do the signing in our artists lounge. We had a “day room” set up for them with tables, rolling carts, pencils, electric sharpener, slip sheeting, snacks, coffee and drinks and supplied an assistant to help the artist. Without this control we could not provide Certification of the edition.

But today’s variation of the ink jet Giclee is the “print on Demand” concept. This allows the artist, once his piece has been scanned and stored in the main computer, to request and have printed, art prints “one at a time as needed” and thus a single repro can be produced “on demand” and shipped to them. By allowing this we had no control over the integrity of the edition, could not stop the artist from creating over runs. And the point you make, from re-working the surface with additional media, markings.

That is not necessarily a bad thing. It just makes the print into what is called a “monotype”. Many artists, including myself do this. I will create an original series of serigraphs [say 20 prints], then go back and re-work them one at a time and end up with 20 individuals, similar yet different pieces all of which can technically be called “originals” because each one is worked over differently.

It is this new approach that allows artist to sell “originals” on both Ebay and Etsy, by scanning their original and storing with a printer. Then post the original on Ebay and Etsy, title it as a “Custom” original acrylic or oil abstract, modern painting and list it with a 2-week handling time. Now when the Sale occurs, the artist orders just one repro on canvass. It ships to him in couple of days, he then stretches it on stretcher bars, puts it on his easel or work table, then he re-works over the surface changing some areas, covering others, adding transparent tinting over large areas is very popular. This now makes this one piece unique and different from the original, then lastly with clear brush texturing going over the whole surface with a clear varnish in turn hiding the process you talk about, being able to see re-worked areas by holding the work at an angle. Also, if an overall texture is added by using a smaller brush, it will make it look like it was made all at one time as a single original painting.

This also will fill in or level out any high and low spots, making the surface more uniform in height. Museums can detect this process by using black lights on the artwork in a dark room and by micron measurements of the artworks thickness overall. But this would never be done on the many what is being called, original acrylic artwork, in the wild, being sold on Ebay and Etsy. Too costly.

America is full of “wall decor” repro prints. And if not, then China has an art district [look up China art factories] and watch the videos of Chinese artist knocking out “originals” repeatedly by hand.

But yes, one can see things on the surface or artwork, but to the average layman at an estate sale or auction, without being able to get the piece out of the frame, out from under the glass and giving close examination to both paint, ink or paper it is hard to tell.

I approach most art we buy out in the wild as it is all a cheap repro and has a value of the frame and glass only, until I take a very close look at it. Then at our local auction house I do occasionally find a piece worth paying a little bit more. At estate sales, buyer beware of paying high dollar for “wall decor”.

Tip for those shopping at local thrift stores, flea markets, and supposedly antique malls. A tip to be able to tell a cheap litho reproduction from 25 feet away. If you ever see a framed piece of art that has an overall blue, [cyan], purplish look to it. Keep walking. It is a 4-color process litho print done in CMYK inks and the red is the most unstable color and next is the yellow. The reason the framed print looks over all purple-bluish is that the red and yellow has faded due to sunlight hitting the surface. Those cheap litho inks, like the ink and presses used for magazine publishing will be gone in 12 to 24 months, especially if subjected to sun light. I see these all the time and they stick out from yards away from me.

Oh, and any print that has two signatures is usually a repro. The original signature on the original painting is copied when it is scanned to reproduce, then after a cramp load are printed, the publisher gets the artist to pencil sign it. That falls into the category, for me at least, of buying a poster at a concert, then getting one of the musicians to autograph it for you. Well it may become valuable, then maybe not. Does anyone have a signed poster by Milli Vanilli [ugh], and if so, who cares!

So, yes, there is just a myriad of things to know and watch out for when buying any type of art. And I really don’t call what I see art by a technical creation term, but I use repros, wall decor, house pictures and therein lies the value… as a pretty picture, if you like the subject matter, you want it in your home, then buy that pretty picture and hang it. But to think that most pictures will be valuable art, is not the case, in most circumstances, but it does happen.

Stick to original old oil paintings, look at the back for brown old canvass edges, look for nails not staples, no tape and surface condition. A 20 x 24 or larger original oil of a pleasant scene can go for several hundred dollars. And of course, if it is a known artist then more because of the reputation, name and original signature [autograph] on the work.

Aaahh, I just love the first hour of the morning with my two cups of coffee. Gets my mind flowing…

Make it a great day all…. 🙂

Mike at MDC Galleries and Fine Art in Atlanta

[MDC Galleries & Fine Art]

Ok WBird: I am going to skip the ‘wall of text” on telling the difference between an “offset press lithograhic reproduction” and a real art print whether it be a real hand drawn stone lithograph, etching aquatint, serigraph [silk screen], lino cut, wood block. All of these having identifiable characteristics to them. But please search this site for lengthy discussions on offset repro’s.

But the first thing to do is to use a loupe, hand held magnifyer, anything that will give you a magnified view. Usually 6x power and up, preferably 10x power. Search linen testers on Ebay, Amazon and buy one. Many plastic ones only cost a 4 to 6 bucks. Now look at the print and if you see small round dots it is an offset reproduction. I bet dollars to donuts that is what it is.

The name on the back, the fact it is stamped and not pencil signed on the front in the margins I also bet that is nothing more than an inventory control number and the artist name just for the store personnel. A stamping like this adds no value. If a reproduction then not much value either.

If I had it I would first throw my loupe on it and if a “repro”, I would take it apart and either use the frame myself or sell just the frame. A repro that size with nothing on the margins or written in pencil, a real signature, date or title has no more value than framing up an over size post card, which BTW, many framers will do all the time, or they take pictures of famous artist and cut the pages out of large art books, mat and frame them and sell them as home decor. Remember they are framers! But if that is masking tape of that print on the back, then not much of a decent framer either.

Without close examination of the matting, if straight or bevel cut, French matting, double matted, linen surface, and the quality of the mitered corners, are nail holes filled with framers putty, proper wiring on the back, non-glare glass I can’t tell you if the frame is of a high quality thus price. But some moulding contours [and yours seems to be tri-level like triple crown moulding in a house] can run at a high price per linear inch and linear foot. My father in law was a professional framers and he had moulding 8, 10, 12 feet long [called lineals] that he paid $6 to $15 per foot for, especially if they hand done gold leaf on them.

So dig out that magnifying glass and take a look.

For fun, as you look at those dots [which I still bet dollars to dounuts] you will find, think about this. You will only see the dots printed in Blue, red, yellow and black [CMYK] and if so, then ask yourself how are you seeing greens, tans, browns, purples, when there is no ink used on the print that are those colors. LOL :-). That too has been discussed at length in one of my previous posts.

I could be completely wrong.. but remember I have a lot of donuts [plus about 50 years as an artist, master print maker and commercial printer] riding on my guess you will just find a bunch of dots.

Now if there is a real pencil signed Wyeth either Andrew or some of his family members, then Bingo! Also Andrew did his works in watercolor and egg tempera. There are no dots in any of those mediums again LOL 🙂 and the only way to get prints is to litho repro them.

Think of this as far as value goes. A hand done limited edition takes weeks or months to do a small amount of prints. Usually 250 to 500 signified by the numbering system of 1/250 to 250/250. Huge editions are very frowned upon in the real art community. Not even 1,000 print editions are of much interest unless the pencil signture is there, and then you are buying, collecting or selling and autograph.

A big thing to think about. American offset press run at speeds of 750 to 1,000 impressions per hour. If you print a run of repros to make any money, to offset the cost of set up, proofing, ink mixing, break down and clean up that is going to take a days worth of work. That time frame will produce an edition of over 5,000 to 7,500 prints. With every print over 500 the value starts to dimenish on top of the fact it is a repro. Modern repros don’t have much more value than a printed poster. $5 to $15 tops and then a old 60’s poster will be more value than a repro by a known artist.

All of this is based on a thought the artist is involved. Have you ever seen a reproduction of the Mona Lisa. I have. Plenty of them. All a publisher needs is poermission from the owner of the original, usually a museum of high end art, and then take a good photograph of the original in the museum ot in a studio [under security of course] and Bingo agagin. Another 10,000 prints of the Mona Lisa is created.

Most framed art we find at auctions and estate sales are not woth too much. I bought about 10 framed works about two weeks ago. The seller asked where I was going to hang all of them and I answered honestly, I am not, I just want the frames and glass, I am going to throw the repors away. Junky European harbor and village scenes.

So there you go, a lot to think about, some home work to do and of course search and check out the terms, art repos, half tone dots, fake art, color theory and a few other terms here on SL and take a read. I think the SL members have accumulated a fair amount of information about repors’ limited edition prints, wall art and the such.

And always remember a phrase I took from the Danbury Mint [and others] and added the Mike touch.. Limited edition plates, coins, medallions..yeah, sure, limited to everybody that wants one. as long as orders are coming in they are printing, pressing, pouring, casting and moulding. But funny thing, when the sales drop out, then the manufacturing of slock art stops and they come up with another limited edition, limited time only, scam to run on the American public.

Hey another Wall of text, mixed with a Dennis Miller rant at the end. I love it when I have a few minutes to spare. Keeps my juices flowing. 🙂 🙂

Mike at MDC Galleries and Fine Art in Atlanta

[DigVintageStuff]

Thanks Sharyn – interesting article!
We buy the ribbons on Ebay, mostly they are pretty standard. We steer clear of electric ones, which I think are harder to fix and there’s less demand for them.
We’ve sold 10 manual so far on Etsy for prices ranging from $100 to $200 and they’ve all sold within four months of listing.
We look out for bright colours – red, yellow, orange, blue etc
Definitely worth it if you don’t mind putting a bit of work in to research the model and get them working smoothly!

[Antique Frog]

I’ve only got limited knowledge of Chinese antiques myself- you might want to ramp the price up to something like 700 USD, say it’s got a Qianlong Emperor seal script mark and see what happens. Maybe nothing! The carving appears excellent.

I went down a metaphorical rabbit hole trying to sell a Chinese cloisonné cup. The cup was in bronze rather than brass, and a one-piece casting rather than built up from sheet, but the background colour was black instead of the usual blue or yellow. Sold it as a 19th century piece, but I think the unusual colour made it a bit questionable in buyer’s eyes, hence it went at a lower price than I was hoping to fetch. Never did find out when black cloisonné was in style, but I did find out that Ming cloisonné sells at a discount at auction on eBay UK compared with the same at brick-and-mortar auctions. Ming’s got bubbles in the glass, and the wires are different than Qing.

[SilverFoxFinds]

Awesome poster find and sale!

Here are some highlight’s from last week:

I took a cue from Steve last year and picked up a Hammond M3 organ for free off of Craigslist and parted it out. It’s made several decent sales, as slow as they come. Sold the complete set of upper keys to a fellow in Japan for $50, after removing each key from the heavy metal base, and sending just the keys and screws. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hammond-M3-Organ-Upper-Manual-Keys-Screws-Replacement-Parts/323081777211

Picked up this unusual embroidered wool shawl from an online estate sale for $11, and sold it within a week or two of listing for $72. Would love to have shared a story or any other information in its listing, but had nothing to go on. Luckily, it didn’t hinder the sale: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thick-Black-Felted-Wool-Shawl-Hand-Embroidered-Gold-Yellow-Flowers-Fringe-O-S/323293793859

I have had these 4 botanical watercolor prints forever, but I can’t remember having them hang in my home, so I don’t know their story aside from the artist being from KY. Removed them from their old frames, and sold just the prints. After listing them for over 2 years, they finally sold for $60: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-Vintage-Botanical-Flower-Watercolor-Art-Prints-Helen-Guymon/322517583966

I purchased a large lot of vintage feedsacks last year in an online auction – some burlap, some white with advertising, and some colorful fabric used for sewing clothes and quilts. Finally got around to laundering and ironing the latter 2, and listing them 2 weeks back. I priced competitively and they’ve been moving steadily. Sold 4 in the first week. Here are 2 of them: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-FeedSack-Fabric-25-5-x-36-Unopened-Brick-Red-Blue-Tulips-White/323315907389, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Eshelman-Red-Rose-Dog-Puppy-Food-Yellow-Feed-Sack-Feedsack-22×36-Unopen/323315914537

I picked this canvas folding camping stool up for $2 at a Goodwill on a recent trip. After some research, I found that new ones, with clean and crisp canvas, were sold on Civil War reenactment sites for $15. I priced this one, with great patina on it, at $25 and it sold within 48 hours. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Folding-Wood-Canvas-Camp-Stool-Civil-War-Reenactment-Reproduction-18/323317671147

My Mom collects these small ceramic quilts, but is downsizing her collection. Have sold 2 of the 3 she’s given me in recent months, for $20: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hill-Design-Celebration-of-American-Quilts-GOOSE-IN-THE-POND-Ceramic-Decor-1989/323294981378

Good luck with sales, and have a great weekend!

[SilverFoxFinds]

Love to hear about everyone’s big scores – living vicariously. 🙂 Just hit up a neighbor’s estate sale. Appears she got rid of nothing, but she also didn’t store things very well….among some hard goods, I picked up some vintage fabric (musty) and some vintage books (musty) :-(.

Nothing amazing sold last week, but still some interesting items. The highlights:

My “big” sale of the week: a Coach leather tote, went abroad. Got it for free at a clothing swap, and sold it for $80. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Coach-Gray-Grey-Leather-Tote-Large-Handbag-Shoulder-Purse-w-Crossbody-Strap/323248668060

I’m a fan of lampshade reselling, though the larger you get, the more you may have to think through your pricing, as the shipping can scare off potential buyers. Wanted to list these ones for more, but because of their large size, didn’t. The Buyer contacted me about the shipping expense…I sized down their potential box, and was able to shave off ~$15 from the shipping cost, so that was a win. Bought the set for $6, and sold them for $60: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-2-Black-Paper-Gold-Lined-Large-Drum-Lamp-Shades-10-tall-x-15-top-x-18-bt/323212761328

Finally pulled this gorgeous (but damaged) robe from a death pile – it had to be soaked and laundered and ironed – and it sold within a week for $45. Think I paid $2 at an estate sale. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silk-Kimono-Long-Robe-Boudoir-Floral-Bright-Orange-Blue-Yellow-O-S/323281827643

First good ball cap sale! $30 off 2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Vintage-Olympic-Team-USA-Starter-Snapback-Hat-w-Tags/323068720505

It’s hard to turn down items this cool, graphics this good, even if the payoff might not be great. I’ve had this for ~ a year, finally sold for $30. I paid ~$3 at a thrift store. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rodriquez-Linen-Tea-Dish-Towel-Large-Blue-Kangaroo-Red-Glasses-Australia/322895941788

Had to include this treasure. Was hoping the Buyer feedback would express their weird extreme joy over acquiring it, but they just wrote “Great.” Bought for $3 at an estate sale, sold for $20: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-10-Lite-Creepy-Awesome-Angel-Tree-Topper-Pipe-Cleaner-Arms-Bulb-Hands/323145739707

Happy Scavenging – whether in the wild, or from your death piles! 🙂

[MDC Galleries & Fine Art]

Yeah, I am biting the bullit and working on untangling them. I have about a dozen chargers.

Also a ton of old phone jack cords and am dumping those. Also about 6 audio [white red, yellow, blue] cords. So maybe dump the junk and just keep the adapters and audio-video cords.

I did find an old Palm Pilot along with an attachable keybord, stand and charger. So maybe worth finishing it of.

Thanks… mike

[aperture]

I am not sure. I shoot with 5000K lights on a neutral (white) background and with auto white balance on a Canon 6D. My experience is that autocorrect will make most of my shots better, but occasionally misses the mark (over exposes or puts too much contrast in usually). I think if I shot with more yellow (or blue) lights or on a natural wood background, it would be hard to color correct in lightroom. Most of the color selection is done by the camera at the time the photo is taken.

[Sigilini]

I WISH it took me 5-10 minutes per book, I have been working on two car loads on and off for several weeks now. From what I learned from others here, and from what I experienced recently myself, the best books are the most narrow topic books, such as booklets about specific locations and their history, or vintage bibles, etc.

I sold a lot of navy text books, vintage, for 75.00

In my research, I did notice that old vintage books are being sold in lots by color for decor, like green ones, blue and yellow ones, etc. That was new to me.

I personally found that most books with ISBN numbers were mostly a dime a dozen and I did not find them worth listing.

There is a thread here where So Cal Joe was giving me a lot of advise on listing and it was super helpful.

Hope that helps.

[Habnab]

Some of this will definitely just be reiterating what’s been said by others, but…

-definitely add brand names to your clothing and commercial-good titles. Also patterns, colors, styles, anything a person might use to search for that particular item.

-Going forward, your photos should be brighter and better cropped, without the visible over-the-door rack and other distractions in the background.

-Going forward, cloth backdrops should be pressed, not wrinkled.

-Double check listing titles for spelling errors. I found several. Remove extraneous marks such as dashes from listing titles and, again, fill as much of the available space as possible with relevant search terms.

-Handmade pottery pieces should have the words “Studio Art Pottery” in the title, with glaze colors and initials/names if any in the listing title as well.

-Take loving photos of your art pottery and price it higher. This item, for example, with a better photograph and listing title, would probably sell for at least $30. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Handmade-Pottery-8-5-inch-tall-Muted-Yellow-and-Muted-Purple-Vase/222837667995?hash=item33e228f89b:g:nJ0AAOSw9eVXUI-f

-Paintings and other framed art should have the artist’s name and information about the subject in the listing title.

-Handmade scrubs should have buzzwords like “artisanal,” “natural,” “small batch”

-Stop buying low-dollar items.

-Hard goods should have the material listed in the title. Wood, ceramic, glass, pottery, whatever. Photographs of hard goods should show all sides, including underside/base.

-Anything before about 1999 should have the word “Vintage” in the listing title.

-Your listing titles for your artwork should be more descriptive and include more about subject, color, and style. The words “original art” should be included in the title. For example, this awesome piece has almost no information in the title that would lead anyone looking for a great piece of original art to find it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Go-Go-18-x-24-Inch-Oil-Pastel-by-J-Speedy-Unframed/222800221494?hash=item33dfed9536:g:H8wAAOSwhiZaX5Qh If this were my listing, I would call it something like “Go Go Original Pop Art Oil Pastel Glam Woman Electric Blue Big Hair Retro J Speedy” (I mean, that’s not a perfect title, but you get the drift.)

It looks like, in your artistic life, you have an eye for the interesting, vibrant, and offbeat. I’d take that artistic mindset and apply it toward the items you’re looking to sell. Go back through your shop and pad out those listing titles with nice descriptive words so the title contains terms buyers will be using to find items. Then, next time you’re at the bins/thrifts/sales, don’t settle for same-old same-old stuff. Look for things that really appeal to or interest you, and then photograph them in a way that telegraphs that interest and excitement (I don’t mean you need a professional studio, but photograph them in a way that shows you understand and respect what’s cool about the item. It could be as simple as putting them in front of a plain (unwrinkled) backdrop, or just on a nice piece of wood. It could mean shining an extra light on them, and cropping out more of the background.) Then, feel confident about asking higher prices because you’ve got a novel inventory shown off to its best advantage. (Bonus: photographing bread and butter items well results in higher selling prices also.)

Good luck!

[BethGreen]

My numbers for the week of 1/28/18:
Total Items in Store: 132
Items Sold: 11
Cost of Items Sold: $24
Total Sales: $295 + shipping
Highest Price Sold: $44.99 (Pretty Princess Game)
Average Price Sold: $26.82
Returns: 0

This weeks sales were discouraging. I guess there’s nothing else to say on that.

Regarding the caller talking about the eBay colors on the supplies, I am surprised I haven’t heard a big discussion about this back when they started making the changes. They went from what I consider a very recognizable logo with primary colors and a “Fill your cart with color” campaign (Like it!) to a mismash of purple, red, baby blue and yellow (Hate it)??? It just seems like a bad marketing move to have “branded supplies” that don’t match the brand logo. I don’t get it.

[Sharyn]

I’m behind today and not ready with my numbers, but I wanted to respond to a few things in the podcast before I forget about them.

First, china. I do have a collection of china cups and saucers. My grandparents used to travel internationally when I was a child, and they would bring me a set from different countries that they visited. I also bought some for myself.

My son became interested in using our china a year or two ago, so I’ve been taking it out when we invite family over for dinner. I rarely actually use the cups and saucers because, by the time dessert rolls around, I don’t feel like getting those out. I guess I should be putting them out ahead of time.

Anyway, you were asking for someone who actually uses or collects the stuff. I guess that I am sort of both, but I wouldn’t be buying china on Ebay. My cup and saucer collection is a mish-mash of different brands and styles, so I don’t need to match anything up. Our dishes were handed down to me, and the set has enough extras where I don’t need to buy more.

Lastly, about the Ebay tape. The new stuff comes in three different colors, blue, yellow, and purple. You can buy only one color, or you can buy a variety pack with all three colors. Finally, you can still buy the old design. I ordered the variety pack for this quarter.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 2 months ago by Sharyn.

[Amatino]

There are 3 options for listing items that are more-than-one:
1. Variations
2. Lots
3. Bundles

Variations are where you have one item available in a variety of sizes or colors. E.g. Shirt, 4 blue, 4 red, 4 yellow; or size S, M, L, XL. On the listing page, if you open one of these, you’ll find drop down menus allowing you to choose quantity and/or color (or whatever variant is selected.) As I no longer have any variation items listed, I found this seller’s variation listing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Short-Sleeve-Slim-Fit-Button-Down-Casual-Summer-Shirt-Size-S-M-L-XL-XXL-/172788997770?var=&hash=item283b06de8a:m:mFvBol52lj4InJXn8aR874g

Lots are where you are selling multiple items in one go, with one price and one shipping box/parcel. These lots can be fixed, in that WYSIWYG and you receive exactly what’s offered, such as this listing
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NWOT-LOT-OF-4-J-CREW-SHIRTS-SWEATER-TOP-SZ-XS-/322757732433?hash=item4b25dc2851:g:e1oAAOSwOudZv-U7
Or variable, where you get to choose which items are included in your batch, as in here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-6-Random-Mens-Flannel-Plaid-Button-Front-Shirts-S-M-L-XL-2XL-3XL-/162335666183?var=&hash=item25cbf5b007:m:mG67-1NJk79NExA81EPP0_w

Lastly, you have bundles. Unlike the above two options, bundles are usually the accessories that go with an item. For example, if you’re selling a camera, your bundle would include the strap, case, battery, SD card and instruction manual. When you choose to sell a bundle, there’s a line item in the specifics where you can actually specify what’s included.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-Sure-Shot-60-Zoom-Date-35mm-Point-amp-Shoot-Film-Camera-Plus-Soft-Carry-Case-/182755990920?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IThttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-Sure-Shot-60-Zoom-Date-35mm-Point-amp-Shoot-Film-Camera-Plus-Soft-Carry-Case-/182755990920?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

For Jay: eBay does not appear to have a good descriptive of the above, however, eBay does give an option for listing this way in their advanced seller’s page (scroll waaaaay down!) http://pages.ebay.com/seller-center/listing/listing-advanced-sellers.html

You can find numerous commentaries on eBay Community. Here’s one for you https://community.ebay.com/t5/Selling/bundle-listing/qaq-p/27150589/jump-to/first-unread-message

[GrumpyGranny]

Trying to identify what this blue gorilla ape image is. I saw someone somewhere haul just this thing and then maybe 2 weeks later found one myself (and then sat on it for 2+ months). I believe that its retro and belongs to a rapper of some sort. I cannot find anything like it on the internet, but probably just because I don’t have the right keywords whatsoever.

Any help appreciated.