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Great stuff Sharyn and Steven. Come on, Tommy, I am sure you’ve sold some cool things recently. Let’s see ‘em!
This is a Keyless 8 Day Auto Clock that was an aftermarket accessory to mount on the flat dashboard cars of the 1910’s and ‘20s. Turn the outside bezel to wind it, and pull out the bezel and turn it to set the time. There are many out there and don’t sell quickly but they do sell even though restoring the early cars is a dying hobby. Perhaps people are using them to make clocks with some kind of artistic frame, since they mount easily and wind/set entirely from the front. This caught my eye at a flea market probably for $5 or $10 many years ago and sold for $70 plus shipping after a couple months listed.
https://imgur.com/L4uzVan
The particular model of this leather Bianchi shoulder holster rig (#13 Scorpio) is an old-school favorite with law enforcement but otherwise quite out of style. Not too many out there trying to concealed-carry a large frame, external hammer, steel .45 or 9mm auto up under their arm any more. The outdoor flea market dealer I bought it from should have known its appeal but probably thought he was shooting for the moon at a $40 asking price. I did get him down to $22 for it since I bought several items from him. It sold quickly for $295 plus shipping.
https://imgur.com/Ehk9SiM
This like-new Serola Sacroiliac belt was left by a small crew of plumbers who were at the house one day. (Yes, we needed a crew. The house we’re living in now was built by the Navy as an industrial building in 1937. The systems were built to last but when they do go, it’s never an easy repair.) I called about it the next day to get it back to them but the boss swore it did not belong to them. Oh well. It took a couple months to sell for $39 plus shipping.
https://imgur.com/OtBWdlF
This US Army first award Combat Infantry Badge (CIB) qualification pin was post-WWII (with clutch-fastened pins rather than the older safety-pin type mounting or screw-pin back), pretty rough, and only 1/20 silver-filled rather than sterling, but had a rare maker mark. I had about $2 in it as part of an auction lot and it sold for $20 plus shipping after about 6 months. A very rare post-war German-made CIB recently sold for $578 on eBay just for what it was, without any provenance. But the Army still awards CIBs so you can buy a brand new one at the PX for a lot less.
https://imgur.com/ucAPWDo
I always do well with vintage distressed leather items. This simple legal pad portfolio had stains and no maker’s markings but sold for $49 plus shipping in about a month or two. Coming out of one of my death piles, its source is unknown but I think it might have been out of a family estate.
https://imgur.com/OgGi1cTWelcome! I grew up in Phila and got up into your area now and again. It is a pretty part of the country.
Some unsolicited advice from a “random stranger on the internet” who worked with many family owned businesses over the years: If you have not already, find a business lawyer you can trust and retain them to assist YOU personally in navigating your future in your dad’s business. It has to be someone who does not represent the business in any way, or anyone else in your family, or your business’ competitors but you want someone who works with businesses at least roughly in the same size range as yours. You need confidential advice in your best interests.
With family businesses there are two major issues. First is the family aspect. Every family is different but it is crucial to know and consider in depth where you stand with everyone else involved and what their motivations are. If I do X, will so-and-so do Y?
Second is the business structure. If you stay in the business, how much will you own, how much will you control, what is it worth, etc? If you leave the business, will you or can you still own a portion of it as a shareholder? If so, how much control will you have? Unless you are already well-versed in business law, you’ll need a lawyer to help you with your possible options and pros/cons as a shareholder and/or board member and/or officer (if applicable) whether you stay working in the business or not.
Of course I don’t know your situation so this may be way off base. But it might be helpful.
In the ‘70s, transforming the auto salvage industry with corporate consolidation and sophisticated inventory systems with all the parts removed, cleaned, inventoried and shelved indoors or under cover was all the rage. Now, national chains like Pick-A-Part have gone full circle with leaving the cars mostly untouched and outside again, with buyers doing the part removal. Many of the yards have been prettied up with gravel lots and orderly rows and a relatively quick turnover of the cars.
Many yards are back to the old days, though, with car placement left to the whims of the forklift driver. Crooked rows and muddy lots. At least you don’t usually see the cars stacked any more in yards where the customer pulls the part. It gives me the heebie jeebies to think of what I stupidly crawled into when I was a teenager.
Good stuff, Steven! Sharyn your sales resonated with me this week: I read Lewis Carroll very young and he’s still among my favorite authors to reread now and again. That’s a nice edition with the color plates! I have a couple different editions of the Alice books.
I grew up in Philly but moved away many years ago. I don’t watch sports and had forgotten about the Phanatic. He’s still around and he’s notorious – the most sued mascot in the Major leagues. He was attacked once by Tommy Lasorda. Also, the team does not own the copyright to the costume. Though it was offered, they were too cheap to buy it when they initially bought the costume in the ‘70s. That’s why your mug’s copyright says “Harrison/Erickson”, the original designers. The team finally bought assignment of the copyright later in the ’80s, for 100x more than what they could have gotten it for originally.
And that hat from Wanamaker’s – I remember being dragged there as a kid to shop for clothes. The store had a very interesting history, too. They were the first major store to price tag the merchandise, and were known for other innovations.
This innocuous little OD green canvas strap is a US Army issue item that was used by paratroopers during and after WWII to strap down a knife scabbard to their legs. The knife was mounted on the calf so if you got hung up in the trees on landing (or tangled on the ground), you could reach down and get to it to cut yourself free without having to mess with your harness or entanglement to get to something on your belt. The straps are typically unmarked as is this one but occasionally they’ll have a small trademark of the contractor stamped on the underside of the buckle. There must have been a million of them made and there are many on eBay but I’ve sold a few and I’m still getting a quick $19 plus shipping for them, often going to European buyers.
https://imgur.com/IsSi64y
Combat boots! Most thrifts and flea market dealers are wise to what they can get for military boots these days (and all shoes in general, for that matter) and price them accordingly, but there is still money to be made. There are many variations and eras and a wide value spread between common and rare models and brands. These are jungle boots, with a black leather lower and green canvas upper. They are the quintessential Vietnam War item but were manufactured for many years afterwards, and also by civilian shoe companies that were not military contractors. There are some construction details and different types of soles that differentiate the rare from the common and they were stamped with nomenclature, stock number, contract number with date included, etc which helps with identification. This pair is 1980’s post-Vietnam, and a common version and brand (Ro-Search with panama sole), with all markings worn off and wear and scuffing (I think usually it’s better to leave these as found, unless they’re almost perfect in which case go ahead and polish and detail them), but still sold quickly for $49. They were $10 at Goodwill.
https://imgur.com/2bZq1TU
I’ve had this vintage Mount Evans, Colorado souvenir China cup and saucer listed for several years. I thought it was very attractive and priced it accordingly but have been getting antsy about it and lowering my price periodically. Never many views and never any watchers. It finally sold to someone who lives in the nearest little town to Mt Evans and they were very pleased to find it for $27 plus shipping. Just needed the right person. Good support for R&J’s mantra to “list it and forget it”. I think I paid $10 for the set, though. Sheesh.
https://imgur.com/IRCIjar
I still can’t believe that you can get good money for outdated electronics that were given out for free like this Vonage VOIP digital telephone adaptor. I got it years ago when I signed up for the service but never used it. It sold for $25 plus shipping.
https://imgur.com/uQqyOpG
I have to remind myself when I’m out sourcing that people will buy cheap little tourist items like this wooden carved turtle. Paid a quarter for it at a yard sale, sold in a couple weeks for $13 plus shipping. $10 is the rock bottom that I will list and sell something for, and I only go that low if it’s easy to pack and ship and there’s little likelihood of buyer drama.
https://imgur.com/Wwx9Hvy
Callou2131 who recently joined the forum was commenting on the high prices at Goodwill. Generally I agree and rarely bother sourcing there anymore, but my family headed out to one to shop for clothing for themselves recently and I tagged along. This farmhouse style signed redware pottery tray caught my eye at $4 and once I identified the studio (still in business in Hadley MA) it was a quick sale at $58 plus shipping.
https://imgur.com/A0ODuM1Oh yeah! I forgot about DuPont. And Wilmington has more than its share of high earning corporate lawyers, too. Great finds!
Yeah, some of the Goodwill retail stores have gotten ridiculous over the past several years. Can’t waste energy on the why and how. Just have to cross them off your list and move on. They won’t be going out of business any time soon. Look on the bright side – if buyers get used to seeing high prices at Goodwill, they’ll pay more for our stuff on eBay.
Since you do clothing, you should try the Goodwill Outlet (aka “the bins” or “pound store”) if you have not already. You can get a lot of shirts at .99 a pound. Your nearest is probably New Castle DE. The clientele can be a bit aggressive at the bins, though. Your professional skills will come in handy. 🙂
Please excuse the unsolicited advice but it seems to me it would be difficult to stick to a narrow niche like men’s shirts when you’re a bit of a hike from major metro areas for a good supply of better brands. If it were me, I’d be looking for things that are in relative abundance for decent prices in my immediate area, say a 45 minute radius. The auctions in rural areas can be gold mines, too, like in your area Dixon’s in Crumpton or Wilson’s in Dover.
Welcome to the forum!
In my invoice the “Shipping fees” consist of only the final value fee that eBay charges on shipping charged to buyers. If you charge buyers shipping, eBay takes a FVF for that even if you don’t buy the labels from eBay.
You’re welcome! Your post reminded me that it was something I wanted to look at myself and I was compelled to find the fine print, from the source.
Parts of NW are very nice. We’re in SE, on the Washington Navy Yard. Not as nice around the base as NW of course but definitely up and coming; an amazing difference from not too long ago when it was combat zone down here.
@Julie Aside from the actual loss from the specific transaction, there are two possible seller account impacts with INAD returns. The first is to your Transaction Defect Rate, visible on Your Seller Level page in the Seller Dashboard. INADs have no impact on your Transaction Defect Rate so long as they are not “closed without seller resolution”. Ebay says: “A case closed without seller resolution is any case the seller is unable to resolve with the buyer prior to the buyer asking us to step in and help with a request, or escalating a case to PayPal for review, and eBay or PayPal determines the seller is responsible.” The Transaction Defect Rate is used to assess your Seller Level, such as Top Rated. Obviously the Transaction Defect Rate is under your control and that is not a reason to contest an INAD so long as you take care of business.
The second possible impact with INAD returns is to your Service Metrics, and this I think is what you’re driving at because ALL INADs (and Item Not Received cases) – whether you resolve them or not – count towards your Service Metrics. Service Metrics are determined by comparison with your peers in specific categories. On the 20th of each month eBay calculates the Service Metrics, counting your INADS/INRs for the past 3 months for sellers with 400 or more transactions in that time, or the past 12 months for sellers with fewer than 400 transactions during the last 3 months.
If you have a “very high” percentage of INAD/INR transactions compared to your peers (whether or not you resolve them), you “might be subject to” an additional 4% FVF for listings in the categories where you’re very high. This is where the mere fact of an INAD can hurt you, if you get many of them.
See https://www.ebay.com/help/policies/selling-policies/seller-performance-policy/service-metrics-policy?id=4769 for the policy and https://www.ebay.com/sh/prf/service-metrics in order to see your current service metrics.
Thanks! Have to use the app but it’s good on your entire cart, so multiple items can be included (some categories excluded, of course) up to $100 off. Also good for our Canucks!
Nice selection of albums there, BTFG. Someone will pay that much for Candy O? Lord. I was living in Mass when that album came out and it was every other song on the radio for what seemed like eons. I can still hear the whole album in my head and I never actually owned it.
Great podcast, and very interesting posts from everyone this week. I’ve been selling on eBay since 1997 and my repeat buyers have usually been all at once, not over time. One buyer buys like 5 items at once then I don’t hear from them again, or they’ll buy one item then another item a week or two later, then that’s it.
So if it’s about cars, I have to chime in. Here’s the first of many high school cars for me, bought in 1971 or so (actually I was still in junior high):
https://imgur.com/qrR6VOe
It’s a 1965 Plymouth Belvedere, bought in running condition for $125. (The picture was after I did the body work.) I wasn’t old enough to drive but I was already running with an older hot rod crowd on weekends (when I didn’t have band gigs) and had seen this car on one of our junk yard parts runs. I tried to buy it on the spot but the guy wouldn’t take my money and said I had to bring my mother to OK the deal. I talked her into it, saying it was just to fix up so it would be ready when I got my license. I had to promise not to drive it. She was working and going to school so she wasn’t around to notice my frequent “test drives”. She never checked the mileage.I did quickly up my game with the cars so I was not stuck with a hooptie for all of high school. Though as a practice I did usually have at least one as a backup.
Thanks for the warning on that, SEAM. I don’t use GSP but sell a high percentage foreign already (ranges 15 – 20% over time), so apparently I’m getting some kind of exposure. I often sell things that have to be listed US only (or that can be listed offering foreign shipping but are subject to prohibitions in certain countries) so I’m afraid Web Interpret would be more work than it’s worth to me.
@SpartyQ After experimenting with a couple different cameras I take all my pictures with my iPhone 7 but it HATES white backgrounds. The items always came out too dark. So now I have a tan rug I use as a background that works much better, or tan file folders for small items, or a medium brown wood table top. If a large item is tan or light-colored itself or would be washed out in a tan carpet background, I use a dark brown or dark green blanket. I personally find that too bright a light source creates shadows and wash out so I no longer use a lightbox setup. The iPhone seems to like it not too bright.
