Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
Albee: Sharyn is correct on both counts.
BUT.. if you mean by asking “at that point”, you mean “instant payment” at the time of acceptance, then no. Even if you have “instant Payment” turned on and shown in your listing, once your item goes to the “make an offer” stage, then whoever accepts the offer or counter offer, the seller or the buyer, then “instant payment is not in effect” and they can take their sweet time about paying.
It will be up to you [the seller] to send periodic notices to your customer to pay up and if not when to decide to open a case against them.
We send a polite in case this slipped through the cracks reminder message after 24 hours, then a pay up or we open a case message after 48 hours, then open a case on them after 72 hours. No exceptions, no buts. Most pay up after the first or second notice. A couple don’t pay and get the open case and one or two a year will then email us and ask to cancel.
mike at MDC Galleries and Fine Art in Atlanta
Sorry Mark. That did not cross my mind. I do have the Silver Level subscription. Sorry about that. One gets used to navigating and forgets about who can and can’t see or do something if they are on another plan.
mike at mdcg in atl.
Highlight everything you want included in the export, then place cursor in the grid area and right click. Look down the drop down list to you come to “send to clip board as XML/Tab delimited, click on this and u get a pop up, then select Tab delimited with or without header and click save, then go to spread sheet and select your paste function. You may have to work on the formating somewhat. But I guess it is whatever one is comfortable with. But either way will provide these more in depth loks at the overall numbers, for those that are interested.
I am familiar with the SQL server and where it is but nothing about writing queries for it. I know SQL from the Control Panel, Services folder because of and on I have to go into the Services folder, find the WonderLister SQL and turn it back on. MS SQL seems to just stop working and stops running periodically.
I also have several other older SQL servers that were for a couple of other apps I use to use for the home remodeling & estimating software. But those are not used now but just never deleted those SQL Services they used to use.
Being a complete novice on queries for the SQL Servers wont it be easier to just create a custom view in WL, using only the columns you want. Then filter WL any way you want, both outside of and within the grid, then sort and then just export as a .CSV file and open in Excel. There you do the number analysis and write your formulas at the top headings or on cross over tabs or sheets. Excel is the champ at number analysis vs. most databases.
With regards to WL allowing acess to their Windows code, it never hurts to just ask. All they can say is either yes or no. But I thought some developers use MS Azure and go through the cloud to do developing across continental boundaries. I know WL has a team out west, in either Neveda or Utah but also in India. So unsure how they are team working on projects. I have stayed out of their way for a few months, letting them work on the Shopify and Etsy projects without bugging them. Don’t want to create a Ren and Stimpy thing there.
Hey Mark: I noticed you have mentioned the manipulation of WonderLister several times. Are you talking about actually changing the coding for WL so these re-arrangements work directly in the WL app, or are you talking about a spread sheet whereby you export the customized columns / view data from WL over to your spread sheet then write the formulas and add or deleted the data columns as you see fit?
Go to flippertools.com. It is a website operated by one of the SL members. In the middle of the menue are two selections called Fitshipper calculator and fitshipper for listing. These two tools will show you how to ship, who to ship with [usps, ups, fed-ex], what size box, for any size and or weight object.
All you do is put in a couple of numbers and it does the rest. If you don’t know where it is going many people put in the zip code that is dead center of the USA and that is 67547. That is halfway from los angeles, new york, miami, east coast, etc. If you know exactly where it is going [a current sale/sold item] of course put that zip in.
This member has several tools on his site that are very useful. I believe Jay and Ryanne have even interviewed him in the past.
mike at mdc galleries in Atlanta
10-4. Roger that.
We ordered all boxes and email said everything shipped last night and is in transit. Should be here by weekend or Mon. Also placed an order for USPS boxes. We take a quarterly inventory count of shipping supplies and order what we need. we use a spread sheet and keep a min.-max. number on it. When we get at or below the min. amount we want to keep on hand of anything, we automatically order enough to bump us back up to over the maximum level. Have about 60 to 70 items on the spread sheet.
Bet some sellers use tons of boxes and supplies.
01/02/2018 at 3:45 pm in reply to: How to avoid trademark or counterfeit violations on common brands used items? #29734T-Satt: It is not all about just fake items. Some of the companies on the list in the link I just provided is that some companies don’t want anybody reselling there items at all unless they are an “approved vendor-reseller”. 3-M is real bad about it. In the printing business they didn’t want us saying we were selling decals with 3-M adhesive backing unless we would buy 250,00 square feet of material directly from one of the 3-M warehouses. Then after we had spent thousands with them, then they approved us as a re-seller and viola’ we could use the words 3-m and Minnesotta Mining in our collateral material / brochures.
LL Bean is also bad about it because they offer a life time guarantee. Buy any of their rubber duck boots and for the lifetime of the product if it ever gets a hole in it or wears out, call them and give you a replacement free. Well they only like people who buy from them to actually sell them because of the guarantee issue. They figure you are not going to re-sell worn out used shoes.
resell them,…yes you can Call them LL Bean Duck Boots and you are not on their vendor [have bought from them list] and your name is mud.
Some companies police Ebay, Etsy, Amazon constantly, like John Deere and Harley Davidson. Others not as much.It seems to sell used online and not be an actual re-seller is to always be just taking that chance that you will get called out on the carpet. Of course some mad buyers or mean competitors turn people in also. Not to Ebay, but to the actual company who in turn looks it up and then jumps on Ebay.
It has the potential to be viscious.
mike in atl.
01/02/2018 at 3:34 pm in reply to: How to avoid trademark or counterfeit violations on common brands used items? #29733Here ‘ya go. You won’t like it because there are hundreds on the VERO List. Click on any specific brand name and it tales you to their Copy Right statement, infringement rules and Ebay specific info.
As you read it think about what you said in your post. Seems like most of the items on Ebay couldn’t be sold. Well you are not far off if ALL of these companies had their way about it.
http://pages.ebay.com/seller-center/listing/create-effective-listings/vero-program.html#m17-1-tb3
Good luck …
mike at mdc galleries in atlanta
I’m with you buddy! 🙂 WonderLister, Quicken HB and Excel all we use also. And we have had as many as 5 companies running on it with separate P&L. Now only running 4 on it but all is fine. Our year end finacials I am doing now. Will be about 2 or 3 days and I am ready to send to the CPA. Being a Sub-S Corporation our company’s taxes have to be finished by March 15th but we are way ahead of the game. More time moving papers around and into files to save than anything else.
Utah Bill: Think you just have to tell Jay you want to be added to the list [I think]. Been getting it every morning for a few years now [again I think]. Jay will chime in a let you know how shortly, I am sure.
mike at mdc in atl.
Amatino: In Outlook you can create folders and set up “special rules” for those folders. Any time an email comes into those folders those specific emails will be re-directed out of your main Inbox and re-directed to those folders. I have numerous sub-folders set-up ffor my favorite places and all emails from those go directly to their respective folder. So all of my SL emails are forwarded automatically to the SL folder. All my Ebay goes to the Ebay sub-folder and even broken down further, all sold notices goes to our Ebay/sold folder. Offers from Ebay goes directly into that folder, counter offers into that sub-folder, etc., etc.
Seems like using the “Set Rules” feature would be of benefit. That way all emails from addresses you have a specific interest in goes to their own sub-folders and all that is left in the “main In-bin” are junk or non-important emails whereby they can easily be sorted and deleted.
You can even set a rule for your junk folder and have those deleted automatically with out even looking at them. Also in the Advanced settings you can create a Special Rule that any e-mail that contains a specific word in the body of the E-mail will be routed to a custom folder. I have one set-up for Christine-R. Anytime she posts anything and it comes into my In-bin, it is automatically re-routed to the following SL weekly pod-casts/members/Christine-R, also have one for T-satt, Retro Treasures, Brian from Grandmas.
If you will note, every posts from SL that a member posts it begins with Amatino wrote: etc., etc. The special rule you create will route any of those e-mails to their own custom folder. You can also create sub-folders for your bank name, utility company name, any common word that is consistantly used can be the “key word” used to route and sort all emails into separate folders. Thoise folders acn be broken down several tiers. I can read, follow, sort. organize all SL emails directly in Outlook and don’t even have to open SL in a browser except to enter my own reply. But everything posted can come in and be sorted into their own folders directly from the fire hose and other sources.
Unsure, but seems some work on organizing the global Outlook folders may be of help, or G-mail, etc. But maybe you have already done this and still you get just too many emails in total. And it certainly doesn’t hurt one way or the other to also have it directly on the forum.
As far as what’s already posted I use the search box on the forum and also the windows search function in the open SL tab.
Maybe we are talking two different things and I am way off base on what you are trying to do or look for.
mike at mdc in atl.
How well foam seals is tested by doing what is called a blower door test. It is a giant fan that sucks from the house side. It is mounted in your front door and sealed. it has instruments on it that measures how much air is being “sucked” from your house. We did 2 tests for each customer. One before we began, and most houses leaked like a collander, then after we ‘foamed” a house, you could see the resistance needle swing way over to the right, showing that now it is much harder to suck air out of the house.
Your walls and windows account for 17% heat loss, the attic is 55%-60%, the floor, chimney, outlets in the walls, around light fixtures, around plumbing fixtures then represents the balance of approx. 20%. You can never get a house 100% sealed. But also wrapping a house in a “skin” like Tyvek wrap when built helps also. And of course when we foam a house for new home builders is the best scanario because we can reach the whole house.
We finally went to selling mostly to new home builders here in the Atlanta area. Easiest and fastest for us and best for the buyer and builders actually use the term “energy effecienct foamed home” as a selling point in this market. The houses sell for more because of it.
Guess you may not remember but my last business we owned was “Spray Foam and More”. A 2 part set of closed cell foam cost us $1,795 [1 55 gal drum of part A and 1 55 gal drum of part B.] That is ISO and Resin. These 2 chemicals are sucked into heated hoses and mixed inside the hose and then sprayed. We got 1,500 BOARD FEET per “set”. That is 1″ thick x 12″ x 12″. so approx. $2,000 cost for foam to cover a 1,500 sq. foot sub floor application at 1″ thick. Then add labor. We sold “open cell foam” and my buyer of my business still sells open cell at $1.25 per sq. ft. and $1.95 to $2.25 per sq. foot for closed cell which you do want under the floor. Open cell is for the walls and attic areas. So if you have a 1,600 sq. foot house that price should be about $3,500 +/-. Get another quote, or get several. Barter with my old supervisor who bought my business, tell him you will give him $3,500 and a free week vacation for him and his family in the farm house. Ha-Ha. LOL 🙂 For $6,000 you should be able to get your whole floor AND attic done.
The term R Factor does not even apply to foam even though they use it on the foam board. The R stand for “Resistance” and “solid foam” is 100% resistant. Think of all of the styrofoam coolers you can buy at the store. Fill it with water and it will hold it forever = 100% resitance to loosing the water. The rating for foam is “Performance Factor”. Any and all fiberglass and, brnad is 33% effecent. Foam is 92% effeceient.i
By the way Ryanne. Doubling up on fiberglass and then “crushing” it down between drywall and exterior siding does not increase it’s R factor it actually diminishes it. Jambing fiberglass in tight spaces around the jack studs around doors and windows decreasing the R factor in some cases down to belive it or not, to “0”. Any tight spaces need to be filled with a special can foam., called Suda-foam. This foam comes with a 6″ nozzle and is soft enough to not expand and in turn bow your windows and doors in and thus making them stick and hard to open and close.
My house is foamed [of course] completely. You can see when ice or snow is present down here, it stays on my roof for days where all our neighbors is melted and gone the next day due to all the heat escaping.
But I know you heat with wood so no use talking about heating and cooling [natural gas and-or electricity] savings for you guys. It is about comfort.
Make yourself a rectangle cooler out of fiberglass. Tape it together with duct tape and then cut a top for it. Now take a styrofoam cooler you buy for $2 at Walmart. Place a bag of ice in each, set out in the sun and leave for 24 hours. Come back either 12 hours later or the next day and the ice is melted in the make shift fiberglass cooler-container you made BUT there is still half a bag of ice left in the styrofoam cooler. So, there you go, twice as effecient at keeping the heat out. AND YES, that level of 92% effeciency does cost more.
-
AuthorPosts