- This topic has 13 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 3 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
Hey all, I just scored this beauty and I was wondering what option I should pick when packing and shipping it. Also, the prices I have found are everywhere on this one. Just the work on the frame itself is $100, I am thinking. It is rare too cause I can’t find it anywhere on eBay. So I was thinking around $200+ … I am open to all suggestions.
Thanks again for everything
Very Respectfully,
Eric -
- Location:
Not sure what is best, but *I* would double box it, pack it and do calculated shipping and offer USPO, FedEx and UPS and let the buyer pick
It is beautiful !!!!!!!!!!! I love it
-
- Location:
I’d have to keep it if I had it !!!!!!!!!
-
It’d be good to find out what year this was. $200 with Make Offer sounds like a strong price.
Here’s how we pack art: http://www.scavengerlife.com/2014/01/ebay-scavengers-video-how-to-pack-2.html
-
Hey shortcut:
Found three of them that sold.
All at $49.99, including frame. Also a lot of 6 of them sold for $103=$17.17 ea. They have made them each year back into the late 70’s 80’s. I saw several from 1985 [different image each year of course] for the two hundred dollar range, but as they got newer the prices went down.Tip many times I get better results if I use [and the site will let me], use “Boolean” language in your searches. BTW.. Ebay last 90 day sold searches is just the tip of the ice berg in research for real old and-or high dollar items. We subscribe to several databases and research sites along with having a long list of saved sites in our browser side bar. On our antiques we subscribe too and use Kovels Antique Price Guide, published each year. It also teaches the reader a lot about the items researched. History, who made, when closed down and lots of stuff that is great to use in our descriptions. But we usually go with gut on items less than $50 due to the time to do deep research.
Main page link:
http://www.worthpoint.com/inventory/search?query=%22book+country%22+poster* New York Is Book Country 1996 Poster By James Gurney 20X26 Books Of Wond Sold for: $49.99 Source: eBay Sold Date: Jun 11, 2016
** New York is Book Country 1996 Framed Poster by James Gurney Books of Wonder RARE
Sold for: $49.99 Item Category: Fine Art Source: eBay Sold Date: Nov 19, 2016
New York is Book Country 1996
The Poster is in great condition The frame has some scratches
Measures approximately 20 1/2″ wide by 27″ tallHope this helps…
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta -
@MDC Thank-you so much for your reply. I have been really thinking about what you said and it has helped me so much. I do have one more piece I am looking for a buyer for and I don’t know what do to about it.
It is signed by the WWII Ace and I have photographic evidence of him signing it with the artist that would come with the piece. But, I am wondering about the price and how special historical this piece actually is.
-
-
Hey Shortcut.. Sorry for the delayed response.
Ok let’s take this one step at a time. First let’s validate the print itself.
From a distance [photo] it looks like a pen and ink drawing with “washes”. With many pen and ink drawings the art contains solid black areas that are composed of thin “contour lines” [outlines] and solid black areas. You have both in this piece. Next in order to get shading / graduated tones an artist must either use a process of cross hatching of criss crossing lines or “washes”. You have several tones of grey in this piece. It is obvious that the artist did not use “cross hatchings” of various types to create the greys we see. So he used washes. Washes are created by taking the “black india ink” and diluting it down into several varying shades of grey by controling the amount of distilled water that is used. It is done by placing a few drops of india ink [highly concentrated] into a plastic egg tray. If the artist wants 6 shades, he places say 2 drops of ink in six trays. Then each compartment he places water with the ink. He starts with one drop in the first space, 2 in the second, 3 or 4 in the fourth and so on. This creates an ink mixture that will gradate from a darker grey wash down to a very light transparent wash.
He then works from light to dark, painting in with a soft sable brush the wider, larger areas of light grey. The mixture of ink with the most water and let’s it dry. Then taking the next darker wash and fills in smaller areas, working backwards from lightest to darkest.Ok this now establishes the original, done by hand pen-ink drawing with wahses. What comes next though is the tell tale sign of what you may have. You said you have “photo evidence” of the artist signing it. Great, but you don’t have evidence of him creating the original. So the following is what you need to know and to find out.
Many artist create black and white pen and ink originals then reproduce then into either small limited edition or larger run prints. this is how you will be able to tell. The lines are too thin for a screen print in most cases, stone lithography would work, but is way to time consuming and most people don’t have the facilities to do it. I know how, but no litho studio. Etching is easy to tell because of the embossed indentation the plate leaves in the paper after it has gone through the process and other ways to identify the ink layer, which I will save for another time.
So this leaves us with the needed following observation work. First if an lithographic offset item or an original. Pen and inks are hard to tell the reproduction process but if this is a repro. it works like this. An orthographic camera is used to photo the original. Ortho film is used to create a metal offset plate that will be mounted on a litho press and be inked up and an edition print run. Ortho film WILL pick up solid black areas and reproduce them dead nuts on in the finest of details without any “mechanical” creation of the image. But add in variations of greys, then it fails to reproduce those. The printer results in having to break those varying, graduated areas into a series of dots, by using what is called a “halftone line screen”. These screens are overlaid in the large format camera during the photographing of the original in order to create films that are plate ready. These screens run in coarseness from about 35-40 line screening up to approx. 300 line screening these days. The most common being 133 line screen [most magazines], 180 line screen to 220 lines per cm for higher grade magazines, [Vogue, etc.], then 220 to 300 or more for fine art, full color repros.
Now, at 133 line screen or higher, it is almost unperceptable to the naked eye and everything loks like it is a “continious tone”, but maybe not. This is why I always carry my two loupes with me when I pick.
So the big question is, are those Grey areas in your print solid “washes” done from a brush with diluted inks directly on the paper or reproduced “tones” of the original. Usually direct washes causes the paper to buckle due to the large amount of water that is applied to the surface.
So, now, get a magnifier, best if 10 x power an up. I suggest you go online an order a 6x or up what is called a “LinenTester” for about $6 and keep it with you when you go picking. But, for now, look at the grey areas. Are they dots, if so you have a reproduction. They value drops drastically. You basically are selling the “autograph” of the artist and he is probably of a more secondary market artist.
Many people when pricing art forget that you can take $500 to $750 go to a New York art gallery and by an investment piece of art by a “known reputable artist” and it will maintain it’s vale and come with all sorts of documentation about the artist. I can get a Warhol, Lichtenstein, Trova, and many, many others, signed in an edition for $750 to $1,000. So be careful on your pricing.
Now on the other hand, pilots and other cross collectors may have an interest in the plane itself, but there are photos available of WWII equipment for those collectors.
So long story ended. get a magnifier and first determine if you have an original or repro. and then let us know.
I apologize for the long dissertation, but my art school teaching genes come to the surface and run amuck when I see posts here on the Forum about art and prints and I can’t control myself sometimes. LOL 🙂
Hopes this sheds some light on this piece and helps others to become aware of how to observe some of the art they come across in the field.
Respectfully submitted.
mike at MDC Galleries in Atlanta
-
-
Mike at MDC,
I just wanted to thank you for all the insight and research you do for others.
While I don’t sell most of the types of things you research and respond to, I always appreciate the education and insightful things you post.
whiskey
-
-
Mike–very helpful–research can be so difficult–here is one of mine, any idea what in the heck this hat commemorates? I have done searches using every term I can think up and have come up with bupkis.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/508641508/antique-vintage-parade-cap-civil-war-
Hey Sue.. Sorry for the late reply. Had Sales to tend to,, listing and still some tax stuff. You know the drill. You are right. I can’t find anything online, in our subscription databases, nothing on this hat or the logo. Just what the heck is it. Wife said maybe some sort of a foreign country’s local dance group costume hat, from way back when. But how to trace that is beyond us. Then the thought of some old lodge type of hat but no not that either.
There is no markings on it at all anywhere? Nothing to go on?
Sorry .. but seems like a strike out this time. If I get a revelation I will check again, but nothing at this time.
mike in mdc galleries in Atlanta
-
-
Hey Mike, once again thanks so much for the most amazing reply. I loved reading the techniques the artist must’ve used to create the work of art. Why? Because the artist is my late father and I can just imagine him doing everything you said the artist would do. Bravo
With that being said, this is the original – it’s never been reproduced. The signature is real and I have pictures of him drawing it.
One evening the WWII ace came over to my house to have dinner with Dad and he signed it for him. I also have pictures of that moment.
I just have no idea what to do it with it. I think it’s pretty significant in American history and some WWII aviation collectors would like it.
Once again, thank you so much.
-
Shortcut.. you are most welcome, Glad to share knowledge. This is the only forum I would do so.
Here is a thought. Maybe a donation in your father’s name to an Aviation museum would be a thought. Forgo the dollars you may get in return for your dad’s name being displayed along with the piece and accompanying documentation.
I know there is a very large, an interesting museum at Fort Benning in my home town of Columbus, GA. But that is the Infrantry and Air Borne Museum. I am sure there must be an Air Force equivalent somewhere. Just a thought.Mike in Atlanta
-
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.