I'm amazed that someone purchased the Birkenstocks in such worn condition. I prefer to sell like new or new items so that there is never a question about item as described.
i'm also amazed, but i've sold these before in said condition to someone who just wants to wear them in the garden or around the house like slippers and they're too expensive to buy new for that purpose. people love the birks!
If you ever want to clean up Birks for reselling, you can use a fine-grit sanding block to remove the foot imprint on the suede insole. Don't rub too hard or you will make a hole. It only takes a few minutes and they will look great! I have purchased used Birkenstocks very cheaply for myself and cleaned them up in this way.
It's always nice to sell new items, but obviously the profit comes in scavenging the items one person thinks are trash...and selling to someone who doesn't.
I concur with Jay. "Like new" items are ideal, but if a shoe is a special sought-after brand, it is likely worth listing even in really beat-up shape. I am just sure to talk in detail about all the flaws so people aren't shocked when the shoes arrive to them. A few months ago, I found 3 pairs of incredibly beat up Tory Burch flats in my thrift store. Bought them for $8 dollars each (ouch! too much, but the staff knew they were a fancy brand), and I've sold them all for over $50 each. And when I say beat up, I mean disgracefully worn. So much so that I had to question the quality of Tory Burch shoes in general. One pair's toecaps had been previously glued back together but the glue was worn off and the toecap gold bar was floating free. Two of the pairs needed to be resoled. But people bought them gleefully and I only had one return. The buyer said they didn't fit and she paid the shipping to return, and I quickly sold them to someone else. So I am convinced that TORY BURCH is a BOLO (like the brand or not -- I think it's silly status symbol stuff of questionable quality).
Nice sales! Loved that Octoberfest skirt.
I have a shirt I wish would sell. It's had a lot of low offers but by aggravating repeaters. I've never blocked anyone until I listed this shirt and now I've blocked two people. One keeps asking me the same questions every few days and the other keeps giving me the same low offer I keep declining. I always like seeing your shoe sales because I try to compare condition. If you could zoom in occasionally that would be great. I'm trying to learn what wear on shoes is acceptable to people.
If we have an item that gets too many low offers, but we still think its worth a good amount...then we take off "best offer". Set the price and let it ride. And use your judgement on show condition. If it still has life left, it's good to go.
My Aunt has a ton of doll house collectables. She sells that kind of stuff quite often. I have seen a few sellers make quite a lot of money on shoes, I will have to start looking at some. Do you look them up ahead of time or do you buy what you think is nice?
those two dollhouse things were an exception, i dont usually buy that stuff. but i bought those because i like Delft stuff and Revere Ware copper clad pots, so those just happened to be mini versions of each.
Ryanne, Are you sure that was not a salesman sample?
not really sure. all that matters to me is that it sold.
I think the scale for both would better fit a doll not dollhouse (although from a commenter we now see the pan was for a kid!) - not quite small enough. Key words would be 18" doll (which is what American Girl is). The Delft could also be a butter pat.
That tiny revere ware pan is really cool! I like to sell revere ware but I've never seen a tiny one like that before. I thought maybe it was a salesman sample but it really is intended as a child's toy! Here is a short bit about them I found over at www.revereware.org: "The Miniature Revere Ware (500 line) came out in 1955 and was a direct extension of Revere's advertising to foster brand loyalty. These perfectly scaled down replicas were marketed in sets to the "little homemaker", and parallelled the full-sized "Kitchen Jewel" sets sold to their mothers. Copper-clad with Bakelite handles, they even carried the Revere Ware hallmark. They were very popular, rapidly becomming a collecor's item, and continued in production until 1983, by which time almost 3,000,000 pieces had been produced."
Our eyes really opened up when we realized that almost everything is collectible.
Ryanne - what are the measurements that you provide in your listings? I understand heel height, that's a no brainer. What about the length and the width? Are these measurements taken from the outside? Thanks for your help! I found 2 pair of Cole Haan shoes yesterday at Goodwill, both women and men. Didn't buy them but probably should have. They were in good shape. Found other shoes that looked like they had never been worn and didn't buy those either.
we measure the insole, if the insole is inaccessible we measure the outsole and subtract .25" on either side to estimate the insole. we do length, width, sole and height if it's a boot and calf circ if it's a calf to knee high boot.
Bless those rich New York City folks! ;)I just sold a pair of fancy boots to someone in a high end coworking space near my office. Turns out she's one of its original founders! I'm glad she paid me for my time to scavenge the thrift store that's technically closer to her office than mine! :D
Exactly. People pay us to hunt and scavenge. That's where the value is. Okay, quit your job already.
Haha Flim, don't cave to the pressure! Keep your job till you get the other life accomplishments you want to achieve done! As a fellow desk drone, I get a surprising amount of ebay business done as part of my job. (Drop off packages at office store near my job which does shipping, lunchtime thrifting, scoring bubble wrap from colleagues, and on and on.) My quitting horizon is still a few years away, but knowing I could crank up the ebay if my job gets intolerable is REALLY NICE!!!
Haha, I like the pressure. Keeps me motivated!
Ditto, I'm also a fellow NYC desk drone but I'm not sure I could completely give it up 1) because of the security of the salary and also 2) the social nature of things... meeting people, discussing trends, etc. My day job helps inform my picking. :)
Never quit if you love your job. You're one of the lucky ones.
That is interesting, Brian, that you say going to work helps you be aware of trends, which informs your picking. I can't say I'm that lucky (I work with pretty dull people!) but I do actually find things to sell while I'm at work. We have an adjacent library that puts out books for sale for 50 cents each. Once in a while, they're super-valuable textbooks! (I also find semi-valuable books at the local library's shelf of books for sale for 25 cents.) I am surprised that people aren't aware of bookscouter.com and how easy it is to mail books to 3rd party companies that purchase and resell them. Those companies always pay for the shipping via a free shipping label. The only caveat is that some of the companies have minimums (you have to have a minimum of $10 or $20 in book value before they'll accept the sale). When I find a book that looks interesting, I first run the ISBN through bookscouter on my phone to see if it's worth anything. If it is, I then pull it up on Amazon to see if they are offering Amazon Trade In credits. And then I look at solds on ebay. I weigh the hassle factor or trying to sell it vs. the price I can get from one of the online bookstores vs. what Amazon would give me for Trade In, then make a decision. I did decide to yank all my ha;f.com book listings. They weren't moving. Anyway, finding valuable books always makes my day.
@Jay - to clarify, I don't always love my job, but I do like a lot of the people :)@Mama - yeah, I work at an advertising agency in NYC in the West Village, so it's a pretty young & hip atmosphere... I'm pretty much the least hip person in the office
Speaking of finding things at work. Apart from loads of big-bubble bubble wrap and free shipping boxes, I've also grabbed a couple of empty iMac boxes out of the recycling bin recently. One sold on eBay already and I have another one listed now. The first one sold for $14.95. Finding one of those boxes is like finding money in the recycling bin.
thanks for the itp MamaLucia! Going to check that out. Had not heard of bookscouter:)
Anyone here from Seattle area that can recommend me a good accountant with knowledge in online selling business?
I'm trying to figure out how much to list some military jackets. I bought 18 of them for $200. They are winter jackets. Some wool. Several are very heavy. A few from France and Croatia. I think the rest from the US. A few have dates: 1941, 1967 and few dated from the 80s. Just trying to get a gauge on the value of these and a ball park of what they should be listed for. Trying not to spend hours researching all these as I have done with a couple already. Thanks for all you two do with the podcasts and everything. Been listening for a few months now. This is my first posting here but hope to be a regular. I emailed back in August about getting inspired to list and Jay responded. I am up to 140 things in my store so far and have sold some things here and there.
Welcome Trader Clint. All we can say is to "do the research". Since it sounds like your coats are all different, the prices will most likely be all different. Wool coats will sell for more than polyester. Some European military styles will sell more then US coats. I would make separate piles by category and start doing searches based on the tags.
Ok thanks. The couple I did research took a long time. I know that's part of the game though.
Yep, spoils go to those who do the work.The first time you do research on a new item, it'll take a while. Next time, you'll know the answer. Rinse and repeat.
Does anyone know if there is a way to search all of Ebay for items near you? Could you filter for auctions/listings that are local pickup only? Thinking this may be a way to get inventory for cheap.
Yes there is a way. Fairly easy also. Just go to the top of any generic Ebay page. Most pages show the empty "Search" field at the top. Input in your key words for the item(s) you want to search for. But don't hit the search button. At this point, look to the far right side of the "Search" field area and you will see the two words in blue that says "Advanced Search". Click on that and you will be taken to Ebay's Advanced Search page that contains numerous filters. If you look about half way down you will see a button to click if you want only "Local Pickup" to be shown in your search. Then you will see an area to input your zip code and then how far [distance] you want the search radius from your area to be. NOW hit search and you will be presented with listings that match or contain your keywords, that are within the distance you are willing to travel and that are only local pick up. It is sort of like using Ebay to simulate a local Craig's List.. [kind of].If you take a moment to review the whole list of options you will see there are numerous ways to search for items. Good luck.
I sold an item to India to a buyer with 0 feedback. That alone makes me nervous. But to make matters worse gsp didn't handle this one. So instead of buyer asking how much to ship to his country he just bought it. I calculated shipping and sent him an invoice. We'll see if he pays or not. I hate once again not having full tracking. Well it might, the last time I did one out of gsp it told me there was no tracking available. Thankfully its under a pound to ship though so it's not super expensive. It's probably a teen buyer based on the item.
Bit of a techie question here, what browser have you found works best with the eBay website? I'm primarily a Google Chrome user but I'm getting some frustrating results when listing on the eBay website using Chrome. The "Or Best Offer" check box is my arch nemesis, I'll uncheck it, wait over a minute for the browser to update then suddenly the browser will jump to some other random section of the listing page. I also get a very long pause before the browser finishes updating when I input the price on a Fixed Price listing. Anybody else experience this type of behavior? Maybe FireFox would be better? I should probably state I'm doing this on a Windows 7 PC, not sure how Chrome would behave on another platform such as Mac.
Chrome what out a doubt, just dont load that many extenstions firefox is a close second.
I've seen similar issues to what you are describing, and also use Chrome. Who knows if it is a Chrome-only bug.One thing I have started doing, but can't prove if it is the answer, is to make sure there is some text in the description area before adjusting other listing controls. For some reason, this seems to make other page controls 'settle down' sometimes. Or, it really doesn't and it's just a coincidence that has happened enough times to make me think there is a connection! I would get trapped in these 'field auto-reset' loops where the browser would reset a field to a it's original, clear state (for example shipping cost). I'd fill it in. It would clear it out. Again & again. Eventually it would stop and I would win.I was having really bad luck with Chrome freezing about a month ago. I did an audit of my extensions and also tried turning them all off for awhile, including turning the couple that I use a lot (text macros for automating messages to buyers).I wish I could report the magic bullet but things just improved over time. I would definitely try disabling extensions for a bit to see if there is any improvement.
Scavatar, I appreciate the feedback. I honestly don't have many Chrome extensions except for Google Docs and Google Cast but I'll turn them all off next time I list and see if that helps. I'll have to do a bit of experimenting and see if I get the same behavior if I use IE or FireFox. I know since Google started blocking websites using old (vulnerable) versions of TLS encryption I've had that error pop up randomly when browsing eBay on my laptop but then everything works fine on my desktop that I use for eBay listing.
I use chrome and Windows 7 I think. I have noticed the same thing, I have even thought about commenting on it before. Seems terribly glitchy and very slow. The OBO check was my nemesis as well. The best work around I found was to delete the price, click submit and then it seemed like it settled down. Now my nemesis is shipping, since I change it every time depending on the item. Shipping auto-updates, changes itself and is otherwise annoying. Since we are 3 for 3 with chrome, I wonder if anyone on a different browser notices anything similar.
Honestly I think it's just eBay being fluky. Like every now and again my pics stop loading. No reason, just stops. I just take it as eBay's sign that I'm done listing for the day. Or sometimes I'll edit them and hit submit or finish and nothing happens. I have no idea why. Later it will work perfectly.
deb truervalues I use Chrome also, and have somehow learned to finesse that button after many frustrating tries.I check the box and then move the curser out of the box while it circles. if I wait patiently, it pops in a few seconds.When it gets completely unresponsive, I go up to the top right and SAVE FOR LATER. Then I get right back to the listing and it works (most of the time!!!!)
I have the exact same problems with Chrome.
I can sympathize too. On Chrome, the listing page jumps all over the place, sometimes causing me to inadvertently select / unselect / change things. I'm sure there's a good reason for the behavior but it drives me crazy sometimes. My guess is that logic that drives that page is super complicated and additions to the page get hacked into place, impacting other aspects. Given that it's probably one of the most important pages for sellers you'd expect it would work flawlessly.
I have similar problems using Firefox on Windows 7 - the browser jumps around on the page when I'm putting in info on the item specifics or shipping data, the shipping field will sometimes revert back to whatever it was set on when the page loaded (usually whatever I had for the last listing). Lately it's been erasing the price right after I input it, before I click away from that box. Like debtruervalues says, if I'm having lots of trouble or something just isn't working right, I'll SAVE FOR LATER, then go right back to it. It seems to settle it.
I know we do t really do BOLO s here but just incase any of you come across Victoria secret Mukluks grab them and don't even think about it check sold listing you will be shocked at how high these crappy things go for.
deb truervalues - unbelievable!!!! thanks
That's interesting. They actually look really cheap..I would never have even looked twice at something like that. Thanks for the tip!
I enjoy your video's but cannot get much out of the podcasts. I want to see stuff AND listen to your explanations. How do I get Video's only please? Iv'e tried selecting Video's (duh) but it still shows the podcasts too, why? Also Comments are disabled, why? I value the stats. but wan't to enjoy it all, it's how I learn and absorb. Thank's
It's not complicated. We make some videos; we make some audio only podcasts. They're all free to enjoy or ignore. And we do have comments here. You just left one. Hi!
The only videos are the how to's and sold videos. Everything else are podcasts. And comments are only disabled on youtube, not here as your comment proves. If you want to "learn" more from Jay and Ryanne I would suggest actually listening to the earlier podcasts. They were more how to and less lifestyle. Just start at podcast 1.
Why couldn't this have happened to me? Someone found a photograph of Billy the Kid at a thrift store for $2 and it could be worth 5 million now.http://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2015/10/15/448993361/-2-photo-found-at-junk-store-has-billy-the-kid-in-it-could-be-worth-5-million
hmm, it would be hard to judge from the photo as shown in that story if this was BTK or not, I have seen plenty of wishful thinking in regards to old photos in the past, without any provenance it is hard to say. I do feel a little sorry for the antique store that sold it for $2 if it is indeed the Kid.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Eyes-Hula-Girl-Vintage-Paint-By-Number-Kitsch-Mid-Century-Hawaii-Beach-PBN-/121775014747?hash=item1c5a5b435b:g:wW4AAOSwU~FWDJyFI just sold this Hula Girl Paint by number. It had some condition problems and still sold for $50. I paid $4.00.
2am. Gotta love insomnia. Anyway, here's a weird one for you. Buyer asked me if the plush I have for sale has been around smoke, pets (he asked about pets twice), or MOTOR OIL. What the heck is that about. I sort of hope he doesn't make an offer because he seems problematic. The plush is in a plastic bag and its from the 80s. I certainly don't know its track record but I'm sure it's motor oil free lol.
This reminded me of a question I have. What do you do when an item DOES have a smoke or mildew smell and it is not an item you can throw in the washer or easily clean, like a boxed game for example and countless other items. Any tips to rid items of smoke and/or mildew smell?Thanks!
I had something like this recently. I had an item that I knew sells well, but it stunk of that old smell. So under Seller Notes I stated that it has a strong vintage smell. And it sold without problem and I got positive feedback. So as long as you are clear in your description..it shouldn't be a problem.
Sunshine and fresh air can work wonders. Just throw it outside in a safe place for a few hours.
Good Morning All: Question on "Best Offer". I have, as J&R suggested long ago have a price point at which I cut off the Make An Offer option. I currently don't take offers below $19.99. But what is everyone's thoughts on removing this and taking offers on everything since we are into the fourth quarter and buyers are shopping. I know that this will open up more low ball offers and will take up some of my working time for someone offering $10 on a $20 item but maybe it would help clear on out some of the lower priced items and the time spent is just an investment to get that accomplished.I do have a "Clearance" category creating as Brian suggested to me some time back, but that takes time to go through and change item categories in my listings, even using bulk, and then setting up a Percentage Off Sale.Just interested in everyone's thoughts about utilizing Best Offer on all items regardless or still using various price point cut off tiers. thanks all .. mc in Atlanta
Hi Mike. Was listening to a J&R podcast a while back where they discussed this issue. I used to have decline best offer under a certain amount set up automatically. But as Jay said, some people just start low and may work their way up. So I've turned that offer. I did set the accept automatically if price is above feature though..so I don't then have to respond. I just counter a lowball offer and if it comes in super low again, I decline. It just takes a second to do on a smartphone.
Hey Margaret. Think you missed the jist of my question. It is not about having auto decline set or not. It is about even offering the option to make offers on any of my lower priced items. I only allow buyers to make an offer on items priced $19.95 and higher. I think J&R use $39,99. So they don't even have that option available on any item under that. After they stated that, as you mention, some time ago, I too eliminated the option to even make an offer on all of my listings priced under $19.95.So my question was / is: How does everyone feel about taking offers on "ALL" of their listings, regardless of the listed price on each item? As an extreme example, if you have a bunch of $5.00 would you allow offers on all of those or just have the option turned off?If you look at J&R 1st store about 1,000 items [approx. 1/3rd] of thier store is priced below $25 and a large majority of those Do Not Have MAKE AN OFFER on them. So, the bottom line question to everyone is do you subscribe to this way of thinking, No Offers Allowed on lower items and if so why and what is the cut off level. If you do offer the option to make an offer on every item, even your $5.00 and under items why?Hopefully this clarifies what I am asking somewhat. thanks mike in Atl.
Ahh..yes I missed that. I don't have it turned on unless my items are over about $36. But, I may reconsider if my item has been sitting around for a long time..probably a couple of years. I follow the same philosophy as J&R that everything will eventually sell. But if I'm sick and tired of looking at something that's not selling for a long time...I may consider it. But the $5 is a really extreme example. How much might something like that sell at a thrift store? If about the same, I might just donate it and take that amount as a personal donation deduction (you can use thrift store prices to calculate your deduction on donated items). Why keep something around that is such a low dollar amount!
deb truervaluesHi Mike After hearing Cyndi’s (Amazing Taste) interview sometime back, I put almost everything in my store on best offer. She claims that if someone makes any offer at all, it moves your item forward in searches. She also says that everyone likes to feel like they got a deal. For this reason, I welcome all offers—even the low ball ones. It doesn’t take much time—I might average 4-5 offers a day. Nearly 50% end with a purchaseI only use the first tier (set at approx. 80+ %) to automatically accept offers. I leave the decline box empty.I used to decline low ball offers immediately, but am currently experimenting with countering every offer--sometimes low ballers buy—perhaps they are just testing the waters to see what price I will take. Occasionally you will get a real problem low baller, but after three bad offers, they only have the option to purchase at full price (smiley face inserted here). I find them frustrating, but have only experienced a couple of obnoxious ones—who never bought anything anyway. I think your cutoff point of $19.99 is a reasonable place to stop taking offers. I think my limit is $15, but everything in my store priced under $10.00 is from my first 6 months. I have ended many of those items because the end profit wasn’t worth it after fees. If possible, I put small items in lots, so I don't have to deal with them as singles.
Only items over $30 get the best offer option in my store--I probably on average pay more money for most of my items, so lesser value items are not worth considering BOs for me.
I have a dealer friend who sells on ebay and she does great, she doesn't have BO on any of her items (some are over $1000) what she does do is have her auctions end after 30 days then she drops the price, she keeps doing this until the item sells--most of the time her items sell for a lot of money so her system works for her. BTW, she sells antiques, collectibles, decorator items (what I refer to distastefully, lol, as "grantiques") with almost no clothing to put her store in context.
deb truervaluesHi Omfug- How many items does your friend carry at a time? I used to do this exact thing, but found it got difficult to "mind the store" after I had about 400 items. I think Terminal 99 (7000 items) tries to auction everything first and THEN puts good til cancelled. I tried this method also, but it's quite time consuming to manually relist things. Anyone with a large-ish store doing this successfully or quickly? Maybe I just haven't figured out a smooth way to accomplish it.
I have a lot of lowish-price items in my store. I don't put the make-offer button on the lowest price items and usually, even with the higher price items, I dont add that button initially. I try and get my asking price first and if I dont sell it in the first couple of weeks I'll add it. I'm not consistent in my approach about when/if I add it other than leaving it off initially.
Old school antiques/collectibles seller here. I'm always astounded by online sellers who are scared to death to communicate with interested buyers. An offer is a sign of interest. Engage these folks and turn them into buyers. Hone your one on one selling skills, I guarantee you'll make a lot more money and in some cases cultivate a repeat customer.
Thanks for all the feedback on my question. Gave us a lot to think over. Appreciate all of you. mike in Atl
Yesterday, we made it official and signed up for a premium store for a year. Seems like there should be some kind of "Trash Elf" achievement patch for that;-). I'm still being prompted to use the easy listing tool and I'm wondering if there is a reason I should switch over to the advanced. My computer seems to be missing something when I go to upload photos in the advanced. If there's a reason to switch, I guess I'll need to figure that out, too.Thanks,Cindy in KY
If you've been listing for a while, I'd definitely switch to the advanced listing tool. It gives you a number of useful features. For example, the ability to put a condition description is important for customers on mobile devices. Also, the ability to automatically accept make-offer prices. You might also want to be able to tweak the international settings which you can do on the advanced tool.
Sounds like there are some good reasons to switch. Guess I better get that figured out. Thanks Simon. Cindy in KY
Ha! I like the patch idea ...I felt like I deserved a prize or something when I FINALLY hit 500 items in my store! :)
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I recently found about 8 salad plates by a company called Hartstone in Ohio. They're pretty cute and will appeal to a certain kind of buyer ("farmers market" pattern). (Hey, it's not in the league of Flim's fish plates, but we've all got to work with what we've got!) They're all from the same set but the have different images on them (2 with radishes, 2 with leeks, 2 with bell peppers, and 2 with carrots). So my question is, should I part them out or sell them as set? Do people typically buy a set of 8 salad plates? Or do they prefer to buy a set of 4? I could sell them in the following possible combos: - sell each one separately- sell all 8 plates together - sell 2 sets of 4 plates, each one with one veggie image- sell them in sets of 2 "twin" images (e.g., "Lot of 2 Carrot Plates") What do you think? I'm not too familiar with how people buy dinnerware so I don't know what to do. I've looked at active and sold listings, but they're all over the place. It's hard to tell based on this particular pattern how I'd make more money. What's been your experience with selling sets of plates -- better to sell them as individual pieces or in sets? thanks!
I would lean towards selling them as 2 sets of 4, one with each image. If someone really wants a particular plate they may ask you to break the set then you will have to decide if you are willing to do it.
I agree with Anna. I would do one of each different design. Sometimes I have to figure out the combined shipping for buyers who want both sets, but I think the items get more views at a lower price point.
Can anyone suggest a good cleaning product for getting brown stains off of Pyrex dishes? I use Barkeepers Friend but it is still tough for those stains. Thanks!
I've had some luck with using a half of a fresh lemon dipped in salt. Use the lemon itself as your scrubber. If that doesn't work at first, try again leaving the lemon juice and salt mixture on it for a while.Another thing that works well is whitening toothpaste. It has to be the past kind, not gel. Give it a good scrub with (what else) an old toothbrush. Hope this helps!
my favorite is Bon Ami. works great on enamel pans, I've used it on Pyrex as well with great success.
Here are a couple of useful tutorial videos for cleaning your Pyrex:http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/cleaning/tips/a32751/best-way-to-clean-pyrex-dish/http://www.pyrexlove.com/how-to-clean-pyrex/http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/how-to-remove-burn-marks-from-glass-cookware/
Yesterday I was talking with a fellow ebayer sharing our most recent scores. She was telling me about Nora Felming Mini's. I had never heard of these before. But after her telling me her score and checking out he list of solds I will most definitely be keeping an eye our for these.http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_nkw=nora+fleming+mini&_sop=3
In the background I see a scale, a scotch tape dispenser, fragile labels, etc. I take it you have covered what supplies are best/most common for use on a work desk/table?
Yes they have. Go to the top of this page or any page that is on the official blog site. At the top you will see a Tab that says "RESOURCES". Click on that and there is a listing off all of the tools J&R [and many of us also] use in our business. Then there are highlighted links on each topic. If you click on any of those it will take you to various comment sections were you can read about Q&A's about these items. Also if you ever get a chance to listen to every podcast made by J&R, almost every item they use is discussed in detail with when and how they utilize them.Tons of info. here, just some digging needed at times. Good luck. mc in atl.
as mike says---http://www.scavengerlife.com/p/resources.html
Does anyone know if you can legally sell U.S. Forest Service clothing with patches? I see there are people selling the actual patches, but if they are still attached to clothes is it ok to sell? My husband works for the USFS and so we've got extra stuff, but he thinks it's NOT legal. What do you say?
i think you might be able to sell them separately, but not together. or you might not be able to sell the patches at all, not sure. we live in a county with a national park, so we find park ranger clothes at the thrift store all the time. they all have the patches removed. so i think rangers are instructed to do so.