My favorite sale of yours was the Guest Log book. That seemed amazingly cool for someone's cabin.
OMG! I had that same yellow light in my childhood bedroom! I had completely forgotten about it till I saw this video. It matched my Holly Hobbie bedding, but even as I grew up and changed bedding and decor, the light stayed. Oh, the memories! So glad I got to see one again in this video. 😁
That's weird, I bought that same Marlboro bag NWT for $3.00 at a yard sale a month ago. Now I know what to price it at. Thanks!
Love the Marlboro bag. My brother was a Marlboro smoker a long time ago and I remember collecting the end panels to send in for the bag. I have his bag still somewhere either in my attic or basement. Sure I'll come across it sooner or later. LOL I loved the Jordache (sp?) coat!! It's so fun to see what's sold. I feel bad about the church artwork. Someone spent a bit of time on that and it only went for $10..sad. But at least it's out of your hair. What did you have it priced for?
The church art was priced at $30. It is amazing how items where people spend hours on sell for so little.
That is why self selling artists do so poorly on Ebay. They spend 30 hours on a larger 3' x 3' modern art canvass, making the stretcher bars, stretching the canvass, priming and Gessoing the surface, the doing the imag with several layers of pigment and drying time between then applying the final finish and they can't sell anything over $100. I make large oversize canvasses for some clients that are hobbyist painters around the area, and one of my blank Canvasses ready for them to paint goes for $150. On Ebay try selling a real oil or acrylic painting as your own work and ask $450 for it. Good luck.
Handmade quilts are the same way. They takes months and sometimes years to make and people can't tell the difference between a hand pieced, hand appliqued, hand quilted American work of art and a crappy Chinese prisoner made quilt. Good luck getting more than a couple hundred dollars for most of them.
I love the Marlboro/smoking stuff. I've sold a bunch (jackets and bags and tshirts). I have a sleeping bag that I need to sell too. Here's a post I did about it! Marlboro and Other Tobacco Promotional Items
Tobacco stuff sells well and thankfully I live close to a major tobacco company so their stuff ends up in the stores often. Most people have worked there their whole life and collected a lot of stuff their proud of. Then they die and family members deem it as junk. Of course retiring from a tobacco company is a curse within itself. It's a superstition that if you retire from there, you'll die soon after. Happened many times when I was a contractor there. But now a days people don't get to retire old. They get pkg deals to get them out early that they are pushed into taking. Temp companies taking over.
I wonder if they retired being older and having smoked their whole life. Closer to the end either way you look at it.
Love the video, as always. These are the best learning tool for newbies so many thanks to Ryanne.Question - do you always wash clothing when you get it home, before listing it?Here's a tip from someone who lived through this change in measuring cups: when you find one that is "cups" on both sides then it is pre 1977 or so. When Jimmy Carter was in office they talked about starting to use the metric system. So then they started making measuring cups with "cups" on one side and "ml" on the other.
As someone who sells a lot of clothing, I don't wash my items unless it has a funk. First option is to sit it out in the sun, second is to wash it. I try to use a solution that doesn't have a strong smell.That's a great tip for the measuring cups!
Agree with Chris. Most clothes at thrift stores are clean. We only wash items that need it.
That's the one good thing about the GW Jay, the clothes always smell clean. When I get them from thrift stores its 50/50.
Eau de Thrift Store. That is going to be a future post title of mine now! :)
I have two great vintage wool blankets (one is LL Bean and the other is from Scotland). They both smell like a thrift store. I keep vacillating between paying the close to $20 per blanket to dry clean and not dry cleaning but disclosing the need for having them dry cleaned in my listings. I'm afraid to wash them in the washing machine. What would you guys do? The LL Bean blanket should bring close to $100. The other one is probably closer to $50. Paid about $5 each for them.
they're easy to wash. just put them on a delicate setting with cold water, then hang dry. we do it all the time with no issues.
Or simply put them in a plastic bag with a few nice smelling fabric softener sheets. Amazing how they seem to absorb that musty smell. And Fabreeze spray does wonders for fabrics and blankets too.
I'm getting the smoky dive bar smell out of two leather jackets by hanging them outside (under roof) and periodically turning them inside out. It's amazing what fresh air can do - given time.
I us a steamer to get unwanted smells out of garments. Just put distilled vinegar in the tank with water. My tank is 1/2 gallon so I put in about 1/4th cup. It takes out a lot of odors. I also put 1/4th cup in the rinse cycle of the washing machine while cleaning vintage items. It will take out most odors and don't work they won't stink like vinegar.
Well, you know my answer for this: Ozone generator. If you missed the discussion of this, it can be found between episode's 206 and 207, the episode named "Open Q&A: eBay's Advanced Transaction Defect Report" - my post of July 17, 2015 at 10:29 PM
I really love a spritz of cheap vodka (no, not in my mouth, on the item that needs freshening!). I first learned about this with a heavily beaded vintage piece that I couldn't afford to dry clean before selling it, and learned they use this trick in theater departments. It also has some sanitizing qualities. I used it again on an 80% angora sweater going global shipping for $125 - I had already hand washed it but it still retained odor under the pits (horrors!). A spritz and massage, then I used a blow dryer to fluff it and make sure it didn't go into the package smelling like a drunk (the alcohol scent dissipates). Also helps freshen inside shoes. I keep a little spray bottle on hand at all times.
Great tips. I hope you have better luck than I did with the leather smelling of dive bar. Once you think the smell is out, close them up in a box or something for a couple days and check them again before selling them as smell-free.
I have what I think is a seriously one of a kind item. It looks like a big brown book, it's quite old. Inside is several game boards and playing pieces (chess, checkers, cribbage...) made of wood, but the playing pieces might be bakelite. The only pages in the book are game instructions. My grandma gave this item to me in the 60's and it was already old then. Has anyone seen such a thing before?
Picture is worth a thousand words!
Something like this? http://s178.photobucket.com/user/essexantiques/media/000%20old%20estates/Jennifer/Elvera/Elvera789011.jpg.html
I'll try to get a few pics loaded somewhere.
You guys hear amazon is starting or has started a site called handmade where you can buy and sell your handmade items? Seems a bit off for them but I'm sure it will attract buyers.
Similar to Etsy but maybe it'll be like etsy roots before they got overloaded with ton of "handmade" in china?
Has anyone checked out the new Seller Hub Beta? I'm using it now, and though the revised sales reports look to be possibly more in depth, there are some very weird things happening:- The removal of the search bar on the "Sold Items" page. This page is my home base, and where I start searches from for 'list similar'. Why on they would remove the fundamental function of ebay (search for a product) from any page- for buyers or sellers- I am not sure.- Removal of the 'site map' link at the bottom of the page (whaaa?). I relied on this link to find all of the other things that are basically impossible to find due to the wackiness/inconsistency of the Ebay site in general.- Issues with the layout in "Sold Items" view. For example, if I add back (since going to Seller Hub Beta turned them off) the pictures column- but that blows out the row formatting.Of course- it's in beta. How to switch back to the old view is not obvious to me (does anyone here know?)Finally, I tried to report some of these issues using the "Send us your feedback" link on the Seller Hub Beta page. Typed up an email, sent it off, and- boom! Delivery failure, because their feedback email on the page seems to be going to an invalid address.Must you always be so Ebay, Ebay?
I came here to see if anyone was talking about the Seller Hub Beta. Mine changed over while I was in the middle of shipping today. Here was what I noticed:-The total sales number now includes shipping costs, which aren't true sales numbers for me-I can't see what has sold, TODAY-Can't see how many items are for sale, how many are auctions, how many have bids.....I opted out, and send the suggestion email. Then I found out that the sales page has completely disappeared from eBay, so now I'm forced to use the Seller Manager Pro section, which I never did before. Oh well, hope it gets better!Melissa :)
Mine remembers all of those except for the return policy. I always have to hit "14 days and 20% restocking". Everything else (most of the time) gets remembered. 60% of the time every time at least.
i started to list again yesterday (finally!) and was given the option to start using the new hub, but i said 'not now' because i was a bit nervous since people were saying it's buggy. maybe i'll try today.
Melissa, I had the same issue. To get back to the original My Ebay selling page look for a link on the left hand side of the selling manager page under Seller Tools. It should be labeled "View My Ebay Selling, Back to Basics."
Anyone else seeing issues with posting? I posted something, it appeared. Refreshed the page a couple of times and it had vanished. Tried again, with the exact same results (post appeared momentarily, now it is gone).
Your previous post was in Blogger's spam filter. It sometimes happens. I try to check it a couple times day. Not sure what sets it off.
Ebay buyers in the UK were given a quick opportunity today for 20% off anything bought over £20. Only lasted between 4-10pm and I happened to get a best offer come through at that time. Managed to get the buyer to accept a counter offer by passing on the discount code which she happily accepted. Buyers don't get many of these offers and I can only remember another about a year ago. But as they are very shortlived perhaps I've just missed them. Does this happen often in the USA?
Wow. I haven't never heard of eBay USA giving 20% discounts. So eBay UK eats that profit? So if you buy an item for $100, eBay pays $20 of that?
Yes!! Which is why it's so shortlived I expect. The maximum was a £50 discount. I can remember one offer when it was £5 discount on anything in the Home & Garden section, no minimum spend. Found out that sweets were included so bought some bags of fudge with free shipping . Would have been silly not to ;-)
The current offer for sellers without stores is 100 free auctions with 75% off final fees spread over a week. Swings and roundabouts for auction sellers because then ebay becomes saturated with sellers competing with the same or similar items pushing prices down..
I've gotten a $10 off coupon before from eBay. I had to apply it to an item I wanted, and thought I did, but it didn't go through. The seller was awesome, cancelled the transaction for me, and re-listed it. I bought it quickly and paid right away and got the $10 discount too.
A friend of mine got a $25 coupon from ebay yesterday, and used it right away. I've never gotten one.
I am using the new Seller Hub Beta . like it ok so far . The one thing i cant find is how to relist a item that has ended . When i click on unsold it brings up like a 1000 listings. I don't want to relist something i don't have . I shpuld only have around 10 listings that need relisting . Any ideas. Mark
I would sort by date in the unsold view, assuming the items you want to relist have ended recently. Beyond that, I would search for a title to narrow down the listings. I have a very low number of unsold items, but then again I mostly do Buy It Now. I can see how this could be more of a problem if you are running auctions that do not automatically renew.
I never liked the seller hubs. I always went to "My eBay" and worked from there. Current listings at the top. Sold listings at the bottom. Unsold in between.
Help! I purchase a rug at an auction for $25.00. I believe it's Persian. The back is stamp STOCK #5A3h58284 Type: Kayser Bazaar5 Istanbul. I believe the rug is Persian but not sure. Trust I've been search and cannot find a rug stamp with this info in the back. Can someone advise on how to tell if it's Wool or not. Any help would appreciated.
do a fabric burn test on a little test piece--http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/31497/how-to-identify-fabrics-with-a-burn-testdo you have a photo or the rug you can upload to imgur.com and share the link?
Hi, I believe the rug you sold that was made in Iran is called a prayer rug. It is used by Muslim when they do their daily prayers.
Yep I also use those keywords in the title of these rugs.
Since this is a scavenger site, my kids were watching this guy on Youtube last night. He scavenges for things underwater..cool what he finds: https://youtu.be/0b7X33U2zjI
That's awesome. I hope he picks up some garbage while he's at it.
Cool Margaret! Thanks.
Margaret did you or your kids check out the rest of his Youtube channel? He's got all kinds of scavenging videos. I'm watching one right now where he is standing knee deep in a river with an waterproof metal detector. He's pulling up coin after coin from the early 1800s. Pretty cool.
Thanks for the video, I'm really liking his other videos too. I am a little curious what he does with all those rusty sun glasses and waterlogged electronics.
Hi, thanks for info ryanne. Here is the link for the pictures. http://imgur.com/a/O0kfN
looks like a handmade wool turkish rug to me, but you should still do the burn test on a small thread. nice find!
Just a suggestion. Since every day is sort of like an open thread, why not post more interviews or links to podcasts you like. It feels like such a long gap between Wednesday and Sunday night. But I get your busy so I certainly don't want you to work more to do it.
May I make a suggestion? Maybe pick one or two of your faithful posters, or someone you know personally, to have a day where they post something. It could be a regular blog post or they can just pick a couple of links and a topic to be discussed. Then it is not any extra work for you and someone else can be working on their online presence to maybe build up to their own blog.
Hey J&R may I pick your brain a little? Just had a bad hour and a half trying to find one stupid little pewter dish to ship. Almost never have a problem at all. I use a consecutive numbered plastic see through bin system. Have 87 bins on heavy duty shelves. Just like you and a few others here. As bins become less full, I just keep using them and placing newer listed items [with a hang tag and the bin number they are going into on the items] back in them. Been doing for years now. Usually no problem, But every now and then I make an error and put a newly listed item into the wrong bin. Uuggh. Only happened a few times, but today I had to pull down 17 bins at about 25 to 30 lbs. each and go through them looking for this little dish and found it in the 17th bin out of 87. It was way down stream from where it was supposed to be. I just placed it in the wrong bin 3 months ago. I am so glad I found it when I did, what if I had to open 40, 50, 60 of those for a "stupid little dish".???So the question. I have heard you say that you use a number system also but in addition try to keep like kind items together. That seems like maybe that would help to keep my problem from being as bad in the future. A small dish would not b be in with shoes. So do you keep all types of likes together all the time, even if made out of different materials. Examples we haver about 50 candle holders listed and maybe another 50 to list from our booths. They are made out of wood, metal, glass, ceramics, silver, etc., etc. So what's your thoughts on keeping all plates in like a PL101, PL102,PL103 box and Candle holders in like Can101, Can102, Can103, etc. Ashtrays in Ash101, Ash 102, etc., etc. Then arrange them alphabetically instead of just numerically like I do now. That would eliminate me from ever having to go through ALL the bins that are so intermixed as they are now.These 87 bins hold about 500 items we have listed, but as we have said before we have over 2,000 more small items in our booths to move to Ebay and into our storage system. Better get it right now even if I have to change them all over before we have a bigger issue down the road. What if I was having to look through hundreds of bins for that dumb old dish.Any thoughts from anyone on using a combination of category bin and numbered system.One last question about maybe forgoing the $5.00 plastic bins and just using heavy duty cardboard boxes like one member does as he showed in his video. Drawback is you can't see inside. But my main question is above. Sorry for the length, but need to get a handle on this before 2,000 +++ items are here in storage. Thanks mc
Hey Mike. Interesting question. I do the same thing as you, but I have a lot less bins. I have 456 active listings and have probably only about 20 bins (but also a whole lot more unlisted). Most are numeric, but some I do categories like shoes, ties, needlepoint (I have lots), toys. I also have a dedicated place for mugs and stuffed animals. Once in a while I will make a mistake, but not often. So I'm curious as to the replies too.
BTW, I used to have them in categories and found that it was taking up too much space as a lot of the bins were empty and so I then combined everything this year into numeric and it seems to work better for me.
That is why I was going with just straight numeric. Once a month I "walk" the bins and being see through I note which ones are only half full. I have a clip board chart system and just mark that bin number as half empty [or whatever it is], then I use that number on my next few, new listings to re-fill it again. That way most of the bins stay fairly full. Some bins have only two or three items in them due to size and are light. Some bins may have 25 to 30 smaller items in them and are 25 to 30 lbs. each. I also keep track of the weight by feel and will not keep using a bin if it gets too heavy.Maybe the best bet would be to use a combination like you say. Especially with things like caps, Christmas, womens shoes, mens shoes and the like. No use scattering those categories all over the place.My wife also said last night to stay with the clear plastic bins. Keeps critter's out with having the locking lids and also easier to see which are half empty for re-use. If not then I would have to pull each box down every month and look inside to see how full. She say's it is worth the extra dollars. We get them on sale at walmart for about $4.67 ea. for 15" wide x 21" deep x 14" high [approx.]I read / saw where J&R kept all men's shoes together, but with thousands of items which will do have, just unlisted yet, if they also inserted a numerical system into the structure. I remember Jay saying he had to waste time wading through a tub of brown shoes to find the correct pair to send. Each of my pairs and items also have a unique inventory number tag on them. So if I have 15 pairs of men's brown, cap toe oxfords, still only the one with that specific item tag gets pulled. I also have my secret inv. numer with date of purchase, bin location and price we paid buried into my listing. That way I can accept offers immediately because I know how long we have had and what we paid for an item.With a business that carries "inventory" it is a must to have a "SYSTEM". Thanks for your reply Margaret and will be talking it all through with my wife as we travel around today.
We have two different storage areas: clothes/shoes and "hard goods". We still use our old system which groups similar items together. But as you mention, we are starting to hit a wall now that we're at 4000 items. I agree that using a numerical system would be best. I'm just thinking to start with bin #1 and go from there. Then it doesnt really matter how you organize. Then insert this number onto your listing. There's a hidden field you can use.
Then there in lies the problem Jay. With a strictly number based system, if you put the item in the wrong bin, it is basically "lost" in the system. So to find it, one has to then look through all the boxes to find it. I think that using a cateory 3 or 4 letter code first, then a dash, then a number that things will be by category and less chance of getting placed in a wrong bin. Even if the location number is in your listing, if the item is not in that bin, it is internally "lost". So at least with a category incorporated ito the numbering system maybe there will be less chance of placing the item in the wrong bin. Like if you have a tie in your hand and you open a box that has all glass ash trays in it, you might stop and think you are placing the item in the wrong bin. LOL..who knows.BTW-I have an item specific line that holds my inventory number along with date purchased, what we paid and the item number and those are camoflaged with several other scrambling numbers. Like this 1406.0304015049437101914. This means the item is in bin 1406 it has a tag on it marked item #3040 [which is in our Excel Program], we paid $4.14 for the item, and we bought it in Oct. 19th, 2014. The other numbers are fake scrambling numbers based on hr. and min. This scrambles the number from the customer. By having this in the Item Specifics we can see it on our phones when we get an offer out on the road. The "hidden Field" is only visable when you go to the listing and open it. Having it in the Item Specifics gives me an instant view and if we get a low ball offer I can see immediately what we have in the item or how long we have had it, so we can make an instant decision on the fly to accept or decline.
This is such an important conversation to have. Right now at under 200 items I'm (mostly) managing with essentially a non-system of binned/boxed inventory with other items "floating" throughout the house. It gets stressful in a hurry when something can't be found. I like the idea of a numerical system combined with "like grouping." -- it seems like it eliminates quite a few possible errors without being overly cumbersome.
Where is the hidden field, please?
I use letters for my clear bins and then number each item in zip lock or poly bags. For example A1, A2, etc. I put an inventory number in all my listings below the description in eBay (Inventory: A1). I keep a shelf with 6 bins in my office when one fills up I move on to the next and swap it out for a bin that has room in my storage. If I miss type or loose where an item is I just check the date it was listed on eBay and look at other things I listed that same day and check the bins they were put in. I have over 75 bins + about 16 boxes on 11 chrome shelves (Lowes or Home Depot) and 2 book shelves . I've have never lost anything that I could not find within 15 or 20 min. It works for me.
Linda if you select one of your listings and then click on the "action" pull down menu one of the choices is Add/edit note. If you click on that you can add a note that only you can see.
Mike,Where in item specifics do you put that number? I put the bin number in the Add/Edit Note, but that does not show up on the actual listing. It would be so much easier if I could see that bin number when away from home.Thanks,Cindy
Cindy: If you go to the "Item Specifcs" section of your listing, there is the option to "Add an Item Spcific" field at the bottom. I click on that and add the field Name z-inv.sku. Then the line under that I put my custom [scrambled] inventory number. By preceeding the field title with the letter "Z" it alphabetaically places that field / number as the last line in your item specifics.As a side not. I do not have to do this each time I list. I use a Draft Blank Template that I always have saved that I use for most of my listings. So when I open up a draft to use as a blank that last line item specific is already been created and shows up. All I do is enter the new inventory number in it just like filling in any other field.
Cindy: BTW you can add as many item specifics as you want. I have 15 custom fields that I have created that come up with each blank draft template. Then I put all the colors, sizes, materials, etc. in those fields. Ebay does present "some" item specifics each time you list, but not enough for me. After I include all the item specifics I want then I don't have to repeat them in the description section. This allows me to use a very short description. This has made my listing time twice as fast as it was before.If you have too many item specific fields showing that you don't have data to fill in for, just click the star beside that item specific field and it blanks out and want show on this certain item listing. But then when you go to do a new listings, viola' all 15 of my blank item specific fields show up again.
There's more than one way to skin a cat. Everyone is going to have their own needs and wants from an inventory system. There's a lot of good ideas in this whole thread. It's a matter of what you are comfortable with and what's easiest for you. Personally I think you should develop the most simple system that works for you. If you are spending a lot of time figuring out your inventory, simplify your system. I am using a spreadsheet. Items are numbered just 1,2,3,4. and then my boxes are numbered 1,2,3,4. And I put item 124 in box 5 for example and I note that on my spreadsheet. I also enter what I paid and when it sells, what it sold for, on the spreadsheet as well. I put the item number in the posting description. I am just starting, so I may change the system. I'd be interested if anyone knows a good app or program to use.
Thanks, Mike. We're going to give your system a try. It would be great to have all that info on my iPhone just by looking at the listing. I'm going to spend some time this week figuring out how to create a blank draft template, too. Sounds like that would have to save me a lot of time. Thanks again for the help, Cindy
Hi All, This is Debbie in Los Angeles (Burbank) to be exact. I came up with a good system to locate my items and rarely do I have any trouble finding things. I started a spreadsheet and basically I just add items to it as I go. It simply says what the item is, and where I put it. All of my bins and bags say something on them (I use a label maker to make stickers to adhere to the bins), such as Tote 1 patio, Fabric Tote 1, Black and yellow tote outside, Medium size clear jewelry tote, Refrigerator Magnets, etc. When an item is put into it's assigned location, I highlight the line item in yellow. When it sells, I highlight it in green. It works beautifully because I have over 900 items and in no way would I remember which tote each item is in once I start accumulating more of a certain item. If I forget to record where something is, at least I will have an idea of where I put it based on the date and the type of item it is. I have a system of how I organize the items, too. I do not put clothing, fabric or refrigerator magnets with my vintage hard goods. Similar items get put together in the same location and then I add additional tote or bags with the same name but numbered if I accumulate more of the same sort of item. Anything that hasn't been put away is in one central location until it is taken to it's permanent location and changed to the color yellow. That's how I do it. It's rare that I search for long for anything. I normally go right to each item when I access the search feature in my spread sheet. I search for some identifying characteristic that I would have added into my description and Whalla! It takes me to the right location to locate it. I hope this helps. - Debbie
Another question I haven't seen talked about. How would you go about switching systems from "like items" to numbered bins? Say you have all backpacks in one bin, electronics, etc, then you start using a numbered system in your listings with new bins. Would you then have to go back and add a number to every listing you already created? Hope that makes sense.
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Hi Casey, I had to do this earlier in the year.My solution was to print out a my active listings from Seller Manager Pro. Including the picture thumbnail. I simply wrote the bin number beside the picture as I stored the item away. This was my master list of all items "pre becoming orangised" date. From then on I would have two or three plastic bins going at a time, one for clothing items, and the other two for hard objects. The shape/best fit determined which box it goes into for hard objects. Once it is full, it gets put into storage.As an item is listed, the #A1, or #B12 etc is inserted into the description. When an item is purchased I can quickly see the location by box number, or alternatively if I have forgotten to list the location in the description I can look at the date, order my active listings by date listed, and see what boxes the items before and after were stored in.As I sell items from my original master list I simply cross them off. When they are all gone I will be able to throw it away (yay!)Books are the exception, as I simply keep them in a bookcase and can readily find them.As a bin starts to have more space in it, due to selling several items from it, I simply pull it down beside my desk and it becomes one of the current 3 bins I keep "on the go".If I wanted to move all contents of bin #B1 to bin #B6, I can just search item description for #B1, edit all items, make the change in the item description and do a find replace for #B1 to #B6.This system is one I can see working for 6000 items as easily as it does for 600.
I see what you mean. i don;t know if it will work with my over 1000 items but some variation may for sure. Looks like you have it set up well for yourself!
deb truer valuesHi Stacy - A big thank you! I had about 1400 items listed by category before I switched to the number bin system this last August.The numbered bins are working well, but I couldn't figure out a way to consolidate my old inventory into a smaller, more organized space. I also find that with so many items in my store, I am starting to have trouble finding things and it often takes a lot of time.Appreciate your idea of the master list. I think this will work for me.I REALLY appreciate everyone's input. I get a lot of good solutions from all of you!
Keep you like items where they are is you already have some sort of system going, like>> Clothing Tote #1, Clothing Tote #2 etc. Don't re-organize if you already have a system. Just perfect your system. The spreadsheet is ideal. Instead of making a ton more work for yourself. Just start fresh with your new items. If you want to move your old stuff, then carefully name them (ie: women's green cashmere sweater, etc) and put it where you will store it. When it sells you can search by > Sweater or Cashmere, or Green, etc. You will find it.Debbie (L.A.)
Seems like having some items with a numbered system and some without would lead to confusion with thousands of items in your store.
Hi Casey, I do not number any of my individual items. I only number totes if I need to add an additional tote for the same type of item. If you have lots of sweaters, you can name a tote "Sweaters". If you have more than one tote full of sweaters, you can call it Sweater Tote #1, Sweater Tote #2, and so on. Develop your own system, but it you make a spreadsheet and as a habit, log your items before putting them in their location, you will be able to find them. I'm sure that everyone has different places (that make sense for them) to store their items. I'm just saying that if you add them and their location to a spreadsheet as part of their listing practice, you will save yourself tremendous effort in locating your items down the line if you have a large store. Your system doesn't have to be the same as mine. It's whatever makes sense to you. - Debbie
Debbie, how many items do you have currently? I have 1100 items and so far have not had to resort to spreadsheets or multiple bins of the same item. I do have bins marked for different types of sweaters. Luckily I have a fairy large basement storage room with a lot of shelves and I just sit similar things together and pile large things on top. I think whenmy space is totally mexed out I will concentrate on donating the old inventory that was a mistake or having a sale on it.
A few things that help me organizing inventory are grouping like things together, so that no numbering is needed. These like kind categories also lend themselves to efficient storage space. Small items that would fit in a small box or priority envelope go into dresser or file drawers or small containers grouped in categories: jewelry, wallets, silver, advertising, etc. Larger items are grouped in bins with like kind items, usually based on material size and shape. For example metal items, wood items, cloth items (not clothing garments), books, ceramics and paper, etc. Wood items are very easy to store in bins with little packaging while breakables need more care. Linens and blankets can be stacked in clear bins or laundry baskets to help in finding. Books can be put in bins or crates alphabetically. Clothing is hung on racks in groups - sport jackets, wool coats, leather jackets, sweaters, vests, divided into women and men and then each type is alphabetized with unbranded last. Then you can easily see if you are overbuying a certain brand or type of clothing. Shoes go together and boots go together - alphabetizing also possible or group by color to find more easily. Purses and bags grouped by type and can also be alphabetized if this helps. Hats, gloves, ties, etc. can also easily be stacked or "filed" in smaller containers by brand, color or anything that makes sense to easily locate based on the description of the item sold. This seems helpful to me with limited space, but may not work for everyone. Large bulky items like lamps, decorator items, etc. can be placed together on shelves or larger bins if you don't have them. Larger items seem the easiest to find because I can't wait until the sell if they are space hogs!
I keep an inventory list for each bin (A, B, C etc) on the NOTES app in my phone. When a bin is full of listed items and going to storage, I rattle off a new list (voice command). When things sell I do a quick keyword search in NOTES and pull from the bins. Saves LOTS of space over the "like items" inventory system since each bin can remain completely full and stacked to the ceiling basically.
Is anyone else having funky behavior from your Ebay app? We have twice deleted and reinstalled the app because it wasn't going kaching with sales, etc. the second time we reinstalled it we removed all the data before deleting it. So now it goes kaching but at odd times, like often not until several minutes after the sale. And this morning it has been going kaching twice for each sale. I guess that is better that no kaching at all. That sound is music to my ears. And FYI, my week was pretty dead while they were having all the tech issues, even though I kept listing almost 50 items. But the last couple of days the pipeline reopened. Yay!
Mine was doing that a few weeks ago. It finally fixed on its on.
Mine has been weird too. I think the double kaching is when they buy and when they pay, but it does't always do it when they pay. I wish it wouldn't, because it gets me excited that I sold another item! Then once in a while it will do the chime sound when I get an offer, rather than the kaching. Strange ...
Yes, the app has been acting a bit odd. Make sure that if you uninstall and reinstall that you go into settings to make sure that you check box the notifications that you want to receive.Debbie (L.A.)
I'm glad someone asked this because mine is doing it too. It ka chings twice, the second one about a minute later. I keep thinking I sold two things when I only sold one, bummer. Plus, on top of that my iPad does it at a different time than the two iPhone ka chings, weird.
First I wanted to thank everyone, the positivity and comradery that we have found within this community has been phenomenal! I need the help of my fellow scavengers...I recently acquired a large lot of antique glass bottles, they have the typical white stain on the inside and outside. Do I clean these to sell or do I leave the "patina" on them? Thanks, I look forward to the advice.
We dont have a lot of experience selling old bottles (though we know they can sell well). I would do research and see how more experienced bottle dealers sell their items.I imagine the white haze might be cleaned with vinegar, but we most likely would just do a simple wipe down and let the buyer choose how clean they want the item. Most buyers arent buying by its cleanliness but by the bottle's rarity.
deb truervaluesHi TM - I would vote for leaving as-is and let the buyer do it if they wish. A lot of people like the patina on things.
I have this line in a smaller type face included on my templates I wuse to list. That way it shows up on each listing in both of the condition areas. One in item specfics and again in fine print under condition in my main Description Area.* Antique, Vintage, Used and Older items will show their age. Some wear, discoloration, age-storage odors, scratches, scuffs, chips, cracks, tarnishing, pitting, dust, lint, hair, stains or soiling may be present. **We sell our items in an "As Found - As Is" condition. Some customers prefer the original condition, patina and wear on used or older items. We leave cleaning processes up to the buyers discretion.
I have a lot of old bottles that I have not gotten around to posting. I vote for leaving them as is. I won't clean mine.
Every spring, I dig up bottles on my property. Apparently there was a very large bottle dumping area in the woods and the ground heaving in the winter and spring uncovers more bottles each year. Some are super interesting. So Far, I have been keeping them for myself, but I now have so many that I should start selling them. I appreciate this discussion about bottles because it inspires me to do something with my bottle stash.
Got your own buried treasure in your back yard! Awesome!!
Hey you guys are great, I always listen to your show when I drive to work! The interviews are my favorite.I am just starting my eBay business and haven't actually sold anything yet. My question is, when do you package your item? After you list it? Or, after you sell it? I am thinking packaging my item after I list is the best system. What do you think? I sell clothes for now using polymailers. I think the success of any business is based on how good your "system" is. I am just putting together a beta version of my system as we speak.Thank you,Fred's Premium Closet
Welcome Fred. This is a common question for new sellers. Since you've never sold anything, I can see the logic in packaging all items as you list. But trust me: this logic can quickly change once you start selling regularly and bulking up your inventory. Imagine having 500 items in your store. Do you have the room to store 500+ boxed up items? For us, it's much easier to just package as things sell. But you'll know what works best for you as you get start selling.
Hi Fred. I had the exact same thought as you. I haven't been at this long, but as I purchased more items for my inventory I saw that, for me, it would not be a workable system. It might be workable for clothes, but as you said that's all you sell for now. Also you may consider that any big successful business you can think of doesn't pre-package shipments that I know of, so ship as you go seems to be workable.
deb truer valuesHi Fred - I have found that it is easier for me to "Pre-package" smaller clothing items in clear plastic. I fold and bag them as I am listing, so I handle them only once. It saves me a lot of time folding and refolding while I am searching for items. Items also "present" as newer to my buyers when they are packaged within the outer package. They go well into bins, and you can squish the air out of them to save some room. When you go to ship, they slip easily into bags or boxes. I kind of stumbled on this idea accidentally, but have found it to be one of the most efficient things in my whole process--by the way, I'm on my 3rd or 4th version--I learn a lot from others on the blog here and am constantly morphing my business.
Loved the video Ryanne! I live in the South and the way you pronounced Marlboro was correct "Mawlllborrow" very country twang. LOL!!
I'm not the brightest guy in the world, but it's entirely clear these people are paid by ebay, or on behalf of ebay or one of their buisness associates... If anyone bothered to spend the time to throughly check this out I'm 100% certain I'd be proven right . As far as this 'new' podcast goes, in the bed and breakfast industry, again, im certain you will find they are being paid by that website as well (directly or indirectly ).... I'd bet my life on everything I just posted.
You're right. You aren't the brightest guy in the world.
Come on Jay, out with it!!! Post a picture of the eBay pay stub that you get every week. lmao
Your right this whole thing is a scam. No one make any money on ebay.Gotta run I hear black helicopters in the distance....
Dishonesty watcher. If you are willing to bet your life on not only inaccurate but also trivial things, do you feel lucky to be alive? Where's your facts? And how about civility? Is it possible you are an expert on not only Ebay, but the Guest Industry AND internet marketing? Your time would be better served brushing up on your "investigative reporting". I rarely let what people say in a blog upset me but congratulations you did hit a momentary cord. But, oh well how sad. Back to my Ebay sales, where I really prefer to spend my time rather than tearing down people like J&R who ARE actually helping people be positive and independent. Have a nice life-try not to bet it away on the trivial.
Please head on back to the eBay forums, where I'm sure many of your conspiracy theories have been more than welcomed.